The Concept of Vase Mode in 3D Printing

Traditionally, a layer consists of perimeter, infill, and top layers. However, in vase mode 3D printing, all the infill and top layers are removed, and only a single wall is left. Instead of adding layers, the nozzle moves up in a spiral motion. Spiral 3D printing or 3D print spiral vase are frequently used to describe this technique.

The main principle behind 3D printing vase mode is efficiency and aesthetics. For example, the actual object, say a spiral vase, will have a very smooth finish since there are no layer changes and no Z seams. It will also require less filament, making it faster and cheaper to produce than traditional printing.

Whether the Vase Mode Is Right for Your Print?

Whether to employ the vase mode relies totally on your model design and planned application. It has significant drawbacks even if it provides clear benefits in terms of speed, material economy, and appearance.

When Is It Right?

When your 3D printing project has the following characteristics related to models’ features, print purpose, and 3D printing materials, the vase mode will be right for you.

The Best Models’ Features for Vase Mode

These characteristics are essential because the 3D print vase mode relies on a continuous extrusion path. Any interruption or complexity can break the spiral and cause print failure.

Print Purpose

For example, if you’re creating a 3D printer vase, decorative lighting cover, or artistic object, 3D printing vase mode is often the best choice.

3D Printing Materials

The material you choose is very important for getting the best results. With some 3D printing filaments, it is simpler to obtain sleek and aesthetically pleasing finishes, especially using materials like the ones below:

• Clear or translucent PLA or PLA for lighting effects
• Glossy or silk PLA for decorative finishes
• PETG for slightly more durability with a shiny surface

These materials enhance the aesthetic strengths of spiral vase 3D print designs.

When Is It Wrong?

Despite its advantages, vase mode 3D printing is not suitable for many functional or complex prints.

If your design requires durability, structural strength, or intricate geometry, standard printing methods are far more appropriate.

How to Use Vase Mode?

The Vase Mode technique is widely used for decorative objects like vases, lampshades, and containers where strength is less important than appearance. When done correctly, a 3D printer vase mode print can look almost injection-molded due to its smooth, continuous finish.

But how do you actually enable it, and begin using it? Let’s take a look, using a few of the most popular slicing software applications as examples.

How to Enable Vase Mode in Mainstream Slicing Software

Most modern slicers make it very easy to enable 3D printer vase mode, often with just a single setting.

OrcaSlicer

In Orca Slicer vase mode, you simply enable “Spiral Vase.” Once selected, the software automatically adjusts key parameters:

• Wall loops: 1
• Support: Disabled
• Top shell layers: 0
• Sparse infill density: 0
• Timelapse type: Traditional

This automation ensures your model is properly configured for spiral 3D printing.

Bambu Studio

In Bambu Studio, vase mode, the feature is also called “Spiral Vase.” Enabling it automatically updates all relevant settings, similar to OrcaSlicer. This makes it beginner-friendly while still producing high-quality results.

Cura

In Cura vase mode, the setting is labeled “Spiralize Outer Contour.” Once enabled, Cura converts your model into a continuous spiral toolpath. This is one of the most widely used methods for creating a 3D printed spiral vase.

Tips for Strengthening the Thin Wall

Prints may be weak since vase mode only generates one wall, especially with a conventional 0.4 mm nozzle. Still, you may greatly increase strength with the correct settings:

Increasing line width is one of the most effective ways to reinforce a 3D print vase mode object without changing hardware. It allows you to maintain the speed benefits of vase mode while improving durability slightly.

Conclusion

Vase mode is a strong and efficient method in 3D printing that changes how objects are printed, giving a smooth and beautiful finish that is ideal for decorative items like vases, lampshades, and creative containers.

Still, the 3D printer vase mode is ideal for simple, hollow, and open-top designs, as other constructions might not gain at all. Therefore, with the appropriate model, suitable slicer settings, and careful material choices, you may produce breathtaking spiral vase designs quickly and effectively. Happy printing!

Overview of 3MF and STL File Formats

Understanding the difference between the two popular formats requires a study of both 3MF and STL’s origins and design principles.

What Is a 3MF File?

The 3D Manufacturing Format is designed expressly for the subtleties of additive manufacturing and is a contemporary XML-based data format. Created and distributed by the 3MF Consortium, a cooperative initiative spearheaded by business leaders like Microsoft, Autodesk, HP, and Stratasys, this addresses the restrictions of conventional 3D file formats.

A 3MF file acts as a “smart” package that functions like a ZIP archive and contains not just the 3D model but also information about materials, colors, textures, and even printer settings.

What Is an STL File

Among the most often used formats in 3D printing is STL. Developed in 1987 by 3D Systems, the form depicts a 3D item using a mesh of small, connected triangles meant to reflect the surface of the model. Every triangle forms a small area of the geometry, as they collectively produce the whole shape that a 3D printer can read.

Since STL files just contain geometric data, they lack information like colors, textures, materials, or measurement units. STL is nevertheless a benchmark in several CAD applications, slicing programs, and 3D printing processes because of its simplicity and widespread compatibility.

3MF VS STL: Pros and Cons

Selecting among these forms usually involves striking a balance between the need for universal compatibility and the necessity for sophisticated capabilities. Here is their benefits and drawbacks analysis.

Pros of 3MF File Format

• 3MF is very useful for multi-material or full-color 3D printers because it can store colors, textures, and materials, unlike STL.
• Directly inside the file, it saves all the “digital thread”, including part orientation, support structures, and slicer settings. Sharing a 3MF file amounts to sharing a full, ready-to-print project.
• Often leading to file sizes much lower than STL files for the same model, 3MF stores vertex information effectively via compression.
• The specification requires the mesh to be “manifold” (watertight), reducing the likelihood of corrupted or unprintable 3D printing files.

Cons of 3MF File Format

• The major drawback of 3MF is its lack of broad support for some legacy CAD software, older slicers, and very elderly printers.
• Although the format is consistent, not all programs allow the complex extensions. Hence, some data could be lost when transferred between platforms.

Pros of STL File Format

• The almost universal adoption of STL makes it useful for most applications and 3D printers.
• For basic, single-color, single-material models, STL is often “good enough.” It is straightforward to generate and easy to understand.
• The majority of online repositories, like Thingiverse and Printables, are saturated with STL files for 3D printing, making it the default format for sharing designs.

Cons of STL File Format

• STL files only have information about the surface geometry. They cannot store texture, color, scale units, or multi-part assembly information, which sometimes results in misunderstandings.
• Going from CAD to STL, the change occasionally produces “unclean” meshes with gaps, overturned normals, or non-manifold edges, calling for laborious fixes.
• Massive, cumbersome file sizes might result from complicated curved surfaces since STL saves every triangle independently without a good indexing scheme.

3MF VS STL: Main Differences

To summarize, here are the critical distinctions between the two formats.

Which Is Better, 3MF or STL?

Considering just technical features, 3MF is the better format compared to STL. It is more secure, smarter, and smaller. It eliminates guesswork by embedding manufacturing intent directly into the file. However, the “better” choice depends on your specific needs.

STL remains a giant due to its ecosystem and simplicity. For quick prototyping where color and complex materials aren’t required, STL’s universality makes it a safe bet. However, for modern workflows involving multi-color printers or when you need to archive a project with all its settings intact, 3MF is unmatched.

While STL’s ecosystem is still massive due to technological inertia, the industry is steadily migrating toward 3MF. In the future, as software and hardware support become ubiquitous, the answer will almost certainly be 3MF.

How to Convert .3MF to .STL？

Even though the 3MF file format has clear advantages, many people still swear by STL. This creates a situation where there is often a need to convert 3MF to STL or the other way around, for a number of reasons, such as:

• Improve software compatibility with older machines or programs.
• Keep only the model geometry by stripping away printer-specific settings.
• Make sharing and downloading easier for users who only need the raw mesh.
• Make the model easier to edit in software that handles mesh well.
• Remove old print settings that may conflict with a new printer setup.

Software

Slicing or design software offers the most dependable approach to convert 3MF to STL. Programs that handle 3MF files include Ultimaker Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Creality Print. Once loaded, you can usually export or “Save as” STL. This method often allows you to visualize the model and adjust it before conversion.

Ultimaker Cura Example:

Other options include more complex 3D model software, such as Blender, Meshmixer, CAD or Autodesk. These tools allow you full control over the models, making it possible to edit everything you could want. They are also useful for inspecting the mesh and vertices, in order to make smaller adjustments if you have issues with your 3D printing software or printer itself for a specific file.

Online Conversion Websites

For quick, one-off conversions without installing software, online tools are very convenient.

A free online application called Aspose 3D Conversion lets you download immediately as an STL file after you drag and drop a 3MF file. It runs right in your browser, also letting you convert STL to 3MF if you need, and supports a range of 3D printing forms.

AnyConv and similar sites offer straightforward conversion services, though users should always be cautious about uploading proprietary or sensitive designs to cloud servers.

Conclusion

Between 3MF and STL, there is a traditional confrontation between heritage and novelty. Bringing 3D printing to life, STL is still a trustworthy, worldwide geometry benchmark. But STL’s constraints become more obvious as printing techniques move toward multi-material and full-color applications. Carrying the whole story of a print job inside one tiny file, 3MF provides a powerful, future-proof solution.

While converting between the two is currently a necessary skill to navigate the transition period, the trajectory is clear. The future of additive manufacturing lies with the intelligent, comprehensive 3MF format.

What Are 3D Print Files?

Essentially, a 3D model file is a digital replica of a three-dimensional object. Your 3D printer’s program, commonly known as a slicer, therefore sees curves and surfaces differently than a video game or CAD tool might. Instead, it needs a particular set of geometric information.

The Common 3D Printer File Formats

This section is central to understanding your options. Below is a breakdown of the four most prevalent file formats in consumer and professional 3D printing, from STL files for 3D printing to other, rarer 3D printing file types.

.STL File

Since the 1980s, the STL file format has been the default in 3D printing. It represents the surface geometry of a 3D object using a mesh of small triangles. Larger files result from more triangles but smoother surfaces. Specifically, it offers neither scale, color, nor texture data.

Advantages:

• It is supported by virtually every 3D printing software, slicer, and online databases like Thingiverse or Printables.
• Its simple nature makes it easy for software to process and slice.
• It’s a mature, well-understood format with a vast ecosystem of support.

Disadvantages:

• It cannot store color, texture, or multi-material data.
• The triangulation process approximates curved surfaces, meaning it can never be perfectly accurate. When converted to STL, a very high-resolution STL model format will lose some degree of detail.
• The file does not provide a unit definition (mm or inches), which occasionally causes scaling problems if not properly configured in the slicer.

Applicable Scenarios:

STL files are perfect for beginners who want to print single-color, single-material objects. The format is also ideal for functional parts where color and texture are irrelevant. Finally, it has become the go-to format for sharing designs online due to its universal compatibility.

.OBJ File

Offering more versatility, the OBJ file format is a step up from STL. It is a common option in printing and advanced 3D visuals. 3D geometric information can be kept in an OBJ file, much as STL does. But it is also more flexible as it may retain data about textures, materials, and color. It references an accompanying MTL file, which includes the 3D printer material and color definitions, accomplishing this.

Advantages:

• The main benefit is that OBJ files enable printing of complex figurines or full-color sandstone models since they can accommodate texture and color.
• Though this functionality is not always employed in 3D printing settings, it can also depict curves and surfaces more accurately than STL using mathematical curves.

Disadvantages:

• Management of an OBJ model is a little more complicated since it typically comprises the .obj file, the .mtl file, and independent picture files for textures.
• Including color and texture information might greatly increase file size.
• It can manage color, but it is not as strong as 3MF for setting up complicated multi-material print arrangements (such as different filament assignments).

Applicable Scenarios:

3D-printed sculptures, figurines, or topographical maps where color information is essential will benefit from OBJ files. When the print’s surface calls for a certain visual texture, such as wood grain or fabric, they also work great.

.3MF File

STL’s contemporary, deliberately designed successor is the 3MF 3D Manufacturing Format. This format comes in an XML-based data package, commonly a zip, containing all the data about a model in one archive. This includes the geometry, material colors, textures, and even print settings like infill, support structure specifications, and scale.

Advantages:

• Everything needed to describe the print job is contained in a single file, eliminating the file management issues of OBJ.
• Naturally, it enables a variety of colors, textures, and materials.
• Designed to be “watertight” and self-describing, it lowers the likelihood of mistakes such as non-manifold edges that could afflict STL files.
• Since it is XML-based, the data may be examined and modified with a text editor if needed.

Disadvantages:

• Although adoption is quickly expanding, it is not yet as widely accepted as STL, particularly with very old computers or printers.
• It is also more complex compared to other formats, while also having larger file sizes in many cases.

Applicable Scenarios:

This filetype is often the best choice for modern printers with dual extruders or MMU systems. It has also become ideal for users who need to share a complete, unambiguous print job with a service bureau or colleague. It is even perfect for saving a project while preserving not just the geometry but also the intended material and color choices.

What Is the Best Format for 3D Printing?

Here is an analysis from different factors to help you choose.

From the Factor of User Experience Level:

STL is the default and best choice. Given its universality, every slicing will open it, and every lesson or manual you follow will employ it. It streamlines the process and lets you concentrate on learning printing basics.

You will come across projects where STL comes up short as you mature. STL is still helpful for general-purpose printing, but you should begin playing around with 3MF. By storing print settings with the model, it simplifies processes and avoids you having to reconfigure your slicer each time you reopen a file.

From the Factor of Model Types:

For simple and functional parts, STL is perfectly adequate. Color and texture are irrelevant, and the format’s simplicity is an asset. If you are printing a pre-supported tabletop miniature, the designer will likely provide it in STL for maximum compatibility. However, if you are creating your own full-color sculpture, you will need OBJ to preserve the painted textures.

From the Factor of Materials:

STL is a flawless format when it comes to printing using a single material, as it’s easy to use, widely adopted and overall very efficient.

Conversely, 3MF is the better choice for several materials or colors. Its capacity to encode material properties guarantees that the proper filament is designated to the right section of the model, therefore minimizing mistakes and setup time.

Our Recommendation

Start with STL. Even when looking at 3MF vs STL, it is the standard language of 3D printing. Master the basics of slicing and printing with it. Switch to 3MF for complex projects. When your print involves multiple colors, multiple materials, or if you want to save your precise slicer settings alongside the model, move to 3MF. And stick to using OBJ for full-color, textured models.

Other 3D Print File Formats

While STL, OBJ, and 3MF are the most common for the printing process itself, you will encounter other important file types in your workflow for different 3D printer file types.

.AMF File

The AMF format was another attempt to create a modern replacement for STL. An AMF file is an XML-based format that describes the object’s geometry, material, color, and even lattices and gradients. Like 3MF, it is designed to be a single, comprehensive file for additive manufacturing. It can describe curved triangles, allowing for a more accurate representation of a surface with smaller file sizes compared to STL’s flat triangles. And supports features like color gradients and varying material properties across a single object.

Though it is an ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) standard, it never received the extensive support 3MF enjoys from major software and hardware businesses. Compared with 3MF, popular slicers are less likely to contain strong AMF support.

It is still a format for certain industrial or research applications that calls for its special gradient properties in 3D printer files, but it is not advised for regular consumer usage, as adoption and other elements play too great a role in rendering this format obsolete.

.STEP or .STP File

The STEP format is the industry standard for distributing 3D models among professional CAD applications including SolidWorks, Fusion 360, and Onshape. A STEP file includes the “recipe” for building solids, curves, and dimensions in addition to the complete, correct parametric geometry of a model, unlike STL.

You cannot directly output a STEP file. You first have to bring it into a CAD or slicer program that may then export it as an STL or 3MF file for printing. It is the arrangement you use in a professional design context for editing and collaboration, not for the last print stage.

.X3D File

Representing three-dimensional computer graphics, the open-standard XML-based X3D format is an XML-based file format. It follows the older VRML (Virtual Reality Modeling Language).

Web-based 3D applications, interactive simulations, and data visualization all depend mostly on X3D.

Although it can depict 3D geometry and appropriate 3D files for printing, it is not a widely used form in the 3D printing environment. You could meet it when extracting 3D data from a scientific or web-based site.

Conclusion

The traditional STL continues to be a dependable and worldwide workhorse for most common prints. Representing the future, the 3MF format offers a robust, all-in-one solution that lowers mistakes and maximizes knowledge.

Knowing the benefits and drawbacks of STL, OBJ, and 3MF lets you choose with certainty the most appropriate 3d printer file format for the task and ensures that your final print is exactly what you had intended.

What Is A Temperature Tower?

A temperature tower, also called a 3D print temperature tower, temp tower, heat tower, 3D printer temp tower, or 3D printing temp tower, is one of the most common test prints used to determine the optimal printing temperature for a specific material. Basically, the tower allows users to evaluate how different temperatures affect print quality in a single model.

Definition and Working Principle of Temperature Tower

The temperature tower is a univariate control experiment. Under the premise of maintaining consistency in the model, speed, and cooling, only the nozzle temperature is changed, and the optimal range is determined through comparison of molding quality.

By using G-code to automatically change the 3D printer nozzle temperature at preset layer height nodes during the printing process, multiple temperature ranges can be created on a single print. And by comparing the print quality within these ranges, the optimal printing temperature range for the material under the current equipment environment can be quickly and intuitively determined.

How to Print A Temperature Tower?

Printing a 3D print temperature tower is a simple but precise 3D print test that helps you optimize your 3D printing setup and identify what temp to make PLA shiny or improve strength for other materials.

1. Download A Temperature Tower STL

Download a model that includes digital scales, bridges, and overhangs. This design can simultaneously test surface quality, layer adhesion, stringing, and bridging performance.

Search for temperature tower stl or temp tower stl files on platforms such as:

• Printables
• Thingiverse
• MakerWorld

Once you’ve picked one of the websites above, you can then choose a model that clearly labels temperature sections and fits your goals. Many of the designs will have a description from the creator, stating the best type of filament or other important details, helping you pick out the best option.

2. Prepare 3D Printer and Filament

Ensure that your printer has done the necessary preparation, which includes bed leveling, 3D printer bed adhesion, along with the initial calibration. This is also an important time to get familiar with the Filament or 3D printer Filament that you are going to use, and also ensure that the 3D printer nozzle temperature range for the 3D printer Filament is suitable. Also, ensure that the 3D printer Filament is dry before use, or else results may be misleading.

3. Confirm the Temperature Range

You do not need to start from 0°C and go all the way up to 300°C. Generally speaking, the filament types have certain recommended starting ranges as found below. If your filament is not on this list, look at the packaging or instructions to figure out the rough ranges:

• PLA: 180–220°C
• PETG: 220–250°C
• ABS: 230–260°C
• ASA: 245–265°C
• TPU: 210–240°C

Each section of the 3D printing temperature tower should vary by 5°C or 10°C for the best results, as you can clearly see the difference with each temperature range.

4. Set the Parameters in the Slicer Software

Except for temperature, all other parameters should remain as constant as possible during the 3D printing temp tower process to remove any variables:

• The layer height should be fixed (such as 0.2 mm)
• The printing speed should be fixed
• Retraction and cooling should remain at default settings
• Do not pause or change parameters during printing
• Only the 3D printer nozzle temperature should change at preset layer heights

How to Read a Temperature Tower?

After printing your temp tower, carefully analyze the results to determine what is the best temperature for 3D printing with your current setup. The goal is to compare test prints across temperature sections and identify the best balance between strength, surface finish, and dimensional accuracy. By looking at the different layers, you can easily figure out which temperature produces the best results that you are looking for.

Stringing and Oozing

In order to avoid strings or oozes of melted filament, there are a few tips you can use when inspecting your temperature tower. Start by looking between thin pillars, inside arches, or on spike tips.

• Lots of strings like spiderwebs between features → Too hot
• Clean tips and gaps with few to no strings → Good
• Minimal stringing, but possible poor bonding → Too cold

By referencing the three different outcomes above, you can dial in your temperature to fit the perfect settings for your 3D printer temp tower results.

Layer Adhesion and Strength

Another important thing is to check the adhesion and strength of the layers on the tower. Gently try to separate layers or twist parts with your fingers. Be careful not to damage the entire heat tower.

• Breaks cleanly along layer lines → Too cold
• Bends slightly before breaking → Good adhesion
• Deforms easily → Possibly too hot

Again, depending on your experience with the layers, you can figure out whether the temperature was too cold, too hot or perfectly calibrated by looking at the options above.

Bridging Performance

Look at horizontal bridges connecting tower sections. This is especially important for 3D prints with gaps between major portions, as bridges in this case will not only be an aesthetic part but also help the overall strength of your model.

• Bridges sag dramatically or droop → Too hot
• Bridges stay straight and flat with minimal droop → Good
• Bridges look rough or fail to connect → Too cold

Overhang Performance

Similar to the bridge performance, it can also be critical to check for how your model responds to overhang features on your design. Once again, the temperature can have a big impact here. So look at angled surfaces, which generally happen at 45° or more, on the sides of the 3D print temperature tower.

• Overhangs curl, sag, or look messy → Too hot
• Clean overhangs that maintain their angle → Good
• May look acceptable but feel brittle → Too cold

Sharpness & Dimensional Accuracy

Another place where the temperature can impact your test prints is corners, holes, or sharp features. Here you might see different outcomes than what you actually prefer, so use the list below to adjust your temperature according to your personal wishes, or simply set the temperature to our recommended levels.

• Corners look rounded, bulging, or melted → Too hot
• Crisp, sharp corners that match the model → Good
• Corners slightly undersized or less defined → Too cold

Surface Quality and Detail

Finally, you can also change the actual surface quality and detail level of your prints by adjusting the printing temperature. While the above reference list is a good starting point, sometimes you might want a more glossy and melted look for aesthetic reasons, so you can just use the list below as a recommendation, not a necessary calibration point.

• Glossy, melted look → Often too hot
• Dull, powdery texture → Too cold
• Even, consistent layers → Ideal range

Common Mistakes of 3D Print Temperature Tower

When performing a 3D print test to determine what is the best temperature for 3D printing, avoid the following mistakes.

Not Controlling Other Variables

Changing print speed, cooling fan speed, or other settings between temperature sections.
You will not know whether improvements come from temperature changes or other adjustments in your 3D printing setup.

Using Wet Filament

Wet 3D printer filament causes stringing, poor layer adhesion, and surface bubbles regardless of temperature. You will get misleading results from your 3D printing temp tower. It also produces unreliable results, as the humidity can change over time in your filament, making different textures and qualities every time you print.
Dry the filament before testing is necessary. Here is a guide on how to dry 3D printer filament.

Incorrect Script or Slicer Setup

An incorrect script or slicer setup can ruin a temperature tower test. If you forget to add temperature change scripts, set incorrect layer heights for the changes, or use the wrong G-code command, the printer may run the entire model at a single temperature. This means your 3D print temperature tower won’t actually test different temperature ranges, invalidating the entire 3D print test.

One-and-Done Mentality

Printing one temperature tower and using those settings forever is not recommended.

Different brands, colors, and even batches of filament can have different optimal 3D printer nozzle temperature ranges. Therefore, you should always test each new spool, especially:

• Different brands
• Different colors (especially silk, glow, or carbon-filled)
• Different material types (PLA vs. PLA+)

Conclusion

The easiest way to determine an accurate temperature setting for your printer setup is by printing a temperature tower. Printing a temperature tower isolates and only changes the nozzle temperature so that you can see which of the above three temperatures provides the best print quality with your filament and machine combination. By printing a temperature tower for each new material, you will get better surface quality, better adhesion between layers, cleaner bridges, and more dimensionally accurate prints.
 

What Is a Brim in 3D Printing?

As the name suggests, brim refers to the extended part of a hat used for covering. Similarly, in 3D printing, it also refers to the extended part. The part that extends from the first layer is mainly used to prevent the edges of the prints from warping.

A brim is not a support structure in the traditional sense, but rather a build plate adhesion aid. When comparing raft vs. brim, both serve to improve first-layer adhesion, but they differ significantly in cost and complexity. A raft is more time-consuming and material-intensive, while a brim consists of a single-layer extension around the base of the model. Brims are quick to generate, use minimal material, and are often sufficient for improving print reliability.

Purpose of a Brim

The main purpose of using a 3D printing brim when producing your designs, is to help the bed adhesion of your objects. The brim makes a much larger contact area, which helps risk of corners and edges lifting while printing. The brim can also provide more stability for tall objects or narrow models, making them less likely to fall over because of limited footprint or printer-induced vibrations.

When to Use a Brim in 3D Printing?

Okay, so now you know the definition and purpose of a brim, let’s look at when to use them.

Model with a Small Contact Area

Generally speaking, it is a good idea to use brim when printing small models that do not have much contact area on the bed itself. Think of it like glue, adding some more to help fix the model during printing. Small models generally require more anchoring.

Materials with High Risk of Warping

Some 3D printing filaments are at a greater risk of warping than others. For instance, ABS, ASA and nylon exhibit relatively high thermal shrinkage as they cool. This shrinkage generates internal stress, increasing the likelihood of edges or corners lifting and losing proper adhesion to the build plate. The same goes for some polycarbonate filaments as well.

Tall & Slender Models

Like models that have a small contact area, if the 3D printed object is very tall or very narrow, it can also be necessary to use brims since these designs have a high center of gravity that makes it easy for them to topple over or detach. By increasing the effective base area, a brim improves stability and reduces the risk of detachment.

Models with Pointed or Narrow Bases

If your models don’t have fully flat bottoms, it can also be a good idea to add a brim as it will add base contact area to 3D print​ models for improving lateral stability and helping the print remain securely attached to the build plate.

Marginal Bed Adhesion

If first-layer adhesion is inconsistent or borderline, and the printer is otherwise properly calibrated, using a 3D printer brim can improve overall print reliability. Think of it as a safety net that provides additional bed adhesion.

Common Cases of Brim Misuse

On the other hand, some models might not need a brim, and not using one can help speed up the print and cut down on material use.

Models with a Large, Flat Base

If your model already has a large and flat bottom portion, it will most likely adhere well to the print bed on its own. Therefore, you will not need to consider brim 3D printing techniques.

High-Detail or Aesthetic Parts

Some models might traditionally need a brim, but please remember that the brim leaves a rough edge where it detaches, requiring post-processing. Brims can leave minor marks along the base of a print. This can be a concern for parts where the bottom surface is visually critical, but it is usually acceptable for prints that will undergo extensive post-processing.

Fix Problems Caused by Improper Settings

A brim cannot fundamentally solve the problems of gaps, unevenness and uneven line width in the first layer of prints. Brim should only be enabled when the first layer itself is perfect but still needs to prevent warping.

Using a brim instead of proper bed leveling and cleaning is wrong. A brim only increases surface contact, since it does not restore proper mechanical or surface adhesion.

How to Add a Brim in Slicer

Almost all popular 3D printing software makes it easy to add a brim to an existing 3D model. Below, we will take a look at some of the most common slicers.

Bambu Studio

When opening up Bambu Studio, first select your chosen 3D file in the prepare view section. Then click on the “Others” section, where you will then see 3D print brim settings. You can enable the brim here and then choose to adjust the brim width and gap parameters as you need.

Cura

In the print settings panel on the right, ensure you are in “Advanced” mode. For this to happen, you may need to click step 2, there are many settings configurations, so choose “Advanced”. Search for “Build Plate Adhesion Types” in the settings search bar. Set the “Build Plate Adhesion Type“ to “Brim”.

How to Set Brim Parameters

Ok, it is also important to know what the typical parameter settings look like. Below, we will provide what we have found works best for most prints, but feel free to experiment as you feel.

Brim Width

Typical range: 5–10 mm.

The brim width controls how far the brim extends from the model. Wider brims improve adhesion for tall or warp-prone models but use more filament and require more cleanup.

Brim Lines

Typical setting: 5–15 lines depending on model size.

The number of brim lines refers to the number of concentric lines around the model’s base. The more lines you add, the better adhesion to the bed while brim printing, but it uses more material and takes more time as well. So balancing this out can be a good idea.

Brim Gap

Typical setting: 0–0.4 mm.

The gap setting decides how wide the gap between the brim and the model itself is. The wider the gap, the easier removal. But the wider you make the brim object gap, the less adhesion to the bed the brim will actually provide.

Brim Type

Finally, you will also get the option to choose between some different types of brims. Most slicers have the following options at the very least. Full brim is the most common, but the outer-only brim can be a good option as it reduces the number of contact points, making it easier to remove afterwards.

• Full brim: Standard, connects to all edges
• Outer-only brim: Only outermost perimeter (Cura)
• Inner brim: Experimental for specific cases

Conclusion

A brim is a simple but powerful tool in 3D printing to combat warping and improve bed adhesion for models with challenging geometries or made from tricky materials. While a brim is important, a well-calibrated 3D printer and a properly cleaned bed surface are most important to get the best and most reliable results. Happy printing!

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What Are 3D Printing Supports?

The basic idea behind 3D printing support types is, as the name suggests, to help support the 3D model. This can be an important step while the model is being printed, as some designs might not be at their maximum strength before they are finished, or they can have overhanging parts, bridges, or complex geometries that need to be kept in place during printing.

In general, 3D print supports are added to the main model itself via the 3D printing slicer, or sometimes baked into the actual 3D model itself, in such a way that it becomes possible to easily remove the supports once the print is complete. The supports can take many different shapes, but all are designed to keep the model from collapsing or creating unwanted results during printing.

Why and When Do We Need 3D Printing Supports?

Why and when supports are necessary will depend on a few different factors. Typically, any sort of overhangs, bridges, islands or deep holes in the 3D model can indicate a need for supports. Since the printer builds one layer at a time, certain geometric shapes are simply not solid or strong enough before more layers have been added, therefore needing the help of extra 3D printed support structures.

Overhangs typically need supports underneath, so there will be no drooping or falling parts during printing. Very short bridges generally can work without supports, but longer ones will need support to avoid them sagging or connecting in weird ways. Islands are shapes that are not connected at the bottom of the print, and often completely isolated from other parts, so they also need a structure to help keep them in place during printing. And finally, deep holes in models can also need support due to similar reasons as overhangs.

The Types of 3D Printing Supports

Now that we’ve discussed the types of problems with some 3D models, it is time to take a closer look at the actual support structures commonly used. Below we’ve included a few image examples to help visualize this.

Tree Supports

We start out with tree supports for 3D printing, as they are one of the most common types for many different models and shapes. They tend to branch out from the base of the printing bed, in order to then slightly connect with any overhangs or other problem areas, to support them in an effective way that also makes them easy to remove. Tree support 3D printing can be quite material efficient compared to some other supports, so that you don’t waste much filament this way.

Grid / Line Supports

Another form of 3D printing support structure is typically referred to as grid supports, although some people call them line supports, as they look like a grid when viewed in 2D. They are great for providing extra strength and stability to a number of different challenging shapes, but are especially used for large and flat shapes, as well as overhanging surfaces that could droop or warp without the support. However, they can be more difficult to remove and they can also use up more filament.

Soluble Supports (PVA, HIPS)

The last method we will discuss today is soluble supports, and as the name suggests, they make it possible to remove the unwanted material in a much cleaner way by dissolving their connection points. PVA is one such material used that can be dissolved with simple water, making it a great 3D filament to use for supports. HIPS is another commonly used material for this method, dissolved with limonene. The downside is that you will need a dual-extrusion printer to use this method, as you need the normal filament in one extruder and the soluble filament in the other.

How to Set 3D Printing Supports

Now that you know a little more about what supports are, and when they are used, it is time to look at how you can implement them. Below, we have described some 3D print support settings you can try out for reference, but remember that they can vary depending on the slicing software and materials, so use them flexibly as needed. We used Bambu Studio and Geeetech PLA filament as our reference point.

Support Placement

We recommend that you choose the option to print supports “On build plate only”, as it will help prevent the support from falling off or becoming unstable. Adjustments may be needed depending on the model however, so keep an eye out at the start of printing.

Support Density

Choosing the density of support structures is an act of balance. The denser the support is, the stronger and more stable it will be. However, it will also be more difficult to remove from your 3D printed designs, and also use up more filament. We recommend starting with around 30% as that is the default. 20% can also work in many cases, so this is the area to adjust from.

Support Z Distance

Choosing the Top Z distance is another factor that plays into your overall support structure, as a larger Z distance makes supports easier to remove but leaves a rougher surface. Start with the default distance and fine-tune for your model.

Support Top Distance

Smaller top interface spacing improves surface quality but makes removal harder. We recommend that you use 0 mm for large interfaces, and then try 0.5 mm for smaller interfaces. Again, this might need some adjustment to get perfect.

Support Overhang Angle

Choosing the angle for support overhangs is another tricky thing. On the one hand, smaller angles generate more supports, while larger angles reduce supports. However, the best setting finds a balance in order to make removal easy.

The default setting is 40° and we recommend to adjust based on your results, so if if the model bottom sags or strings, you should decrease the angle. And if you find that too many supports form, it can be effective to increase the angle.

Support/Object XY Distance

As for the XY distance for supports and objects, the default setting is 0.5 mm, which generally speaking is a good balance.

Soluble Support Settings

Soluble supports can be set very small or even completely tuned down to 0 mm interface distance, but generally, you will want a little distance. If you find that supports fall off easily, then increase density or reduce interface distance.

we also get the option to adjust wall thickness. This is especially important for soluble support structures, as a single layer can have issues with solvent seeping through when you remove the support. In this case, we recommend at least 2-3 layers for a more robust approach.

How to Remove Supports from 3D Prints

The last section for today will briefly cover how you can remove your support structures once they have been printed together with your desired model.

Normal Supports

Before you begin working on your printed design, you should always allow the model to cool down to an appropriate working temperature to avoid any accidents. However, supports are easier to remove when slightly warm, so timing this step right can be helpful as completely cooled off objects are more rigid.

We recommend that you start by removing the supports from the outside in, and also work your way from large to small structures. One technique that many people find useful, is to twist gently or shake up and down. Many times, the supports can simply snap off, but you might need a small tool to help you cut out tough parts.

Soluble Supports

For soluble support structures, the process is different. It will depend on your chosen filament in particular, so remember to read the instructions for your specific material. Below, we have outlined a rough step-by-step guide for both PVA and HIPS, based on our own experience:

PVA:

1. Soak in warm water (30–40°C) for several hours.
2. Stir regularly or use a soft brush to speed up dissolution.
3. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and let dry.

HIPS:

1. Soak in limonene solution and seal the container to prevent evaporation or odor.
2. Dissolution usually completes in 1–6 hours.
3. Remove with pliers, then rinse in fresh limonene to clean residuals.
4. Allow solvent to fully evaporate in a well-ventilated area before handling.

When removing soluble supports, especially HIPS, you should work in a decently ventilated area and wear solvent-resistant gloves and goggles. Avoid skin contact with limonene for optimal safety and wash it off fast if any contact happens.

Conclusion

Hopefully we have helped you understand the key points for the basic principles behind 3D printing supports, different settings and how to remove your structures once completed. For new hobbyists it can take some time getting used to, and dialing in on the perfect settings for your specific printer, and each model can also have slightly different optimal settings.

We’ve also covered how to make supports easier to remove, and touched on the difference between normal and soluble 3D printer support types. So remember, practice makes perfect, and always keep an eye on your printer from time to time, to avoid wasted hours if the support structure or model is not working as intended. Happy printing!

Einführung der 3D-Druckerdüse

Die 3D Drucker Düse wird in FDM Drucker und FFF Drucker verwendet. Sie befindet sich am Extruder und ist dafür verantwortlich, das geschmolzene Filament auf das Druckbett aufzutragen. Die 3D Drucker Düse hat eine kleine Öffnung, durch die das Filament in definierter Menge herauskommt. Die Nozzle wird vom Drucker über dem Druckbett hin- und herbewegt, sodass die 3D Drucker Düse das Filament schichtweise aufträgt. Besonders ist, dass eine hochwertige 3D Drucker Düse das Filament präzise und kontrolliert auf das Druckbett aufträgt.

Klassifizierungen der 3D-Druckerdüse

Nicht jede 3D Drucker Düse ist gleich! Es gibt verschiedenes Material und verschiedene Größen, die die Druckart beeinflussen. Hier spielt auch eine Rolle, welches Filament und welche 3D Druck Düsen verwendet, um bestimmte Ergebnisse beim Objekt zu erzielen. Dazu im Folgenden mehr!

Durchmessergrößen

3D Drucker Düsen können in fast jeder Durchmessergröße gekauft werden. Je nachdem, was mit dem 3D Drucker gedruckt wird, ist eine 3D Drucker Nozzle mit einem kleinen Durchmesser oder eine mit einem größeren Durchmesser sinnvoll.
Hier ein kleiner Überblick:

Auf den zwei Fotos sind Objekte zu sehen, die mit einer 3D Drucker Düse mit unterschiedlichen Durchmessern gedruckt wurden.
Das erste Objekt von links wurde mit einem sehr kleinen Düsendurchmesser gedruckt. Das Objekt ganz rechts dagegen mit einem sehr großen Düsendurchmesser.
Hier sind die 3D-Benchy-Druckparameter im Bild (von links nach rechts):

0.15mm Düse: 8h 4m, 11.75g Filament, 0.07mm Schichtstärke

0.25mm Düse: 5h 22m, 12.15g Filament, 0.10mm Schichtstärke

0.4mm Düse: 1h 56m, 12.85g Filament, 0.15mm Schichtstärke

0.6mm Düse: 52m, 13.90g Filament, 0.30mm Schichtstärke

0.8mm Düse: 33m, 15.14g Filament, 0.40mm Schichtstärke

Es ist deutlich zu sehen, dass, wenn Düsen mit sehr kleinem Durchmesser verwendet werden, die Präzision des Endobjekts wesentlich besser ist als die der Objekte, die mit größerem Düsendurchmesser gedruckt wurden.

Materialien

Bei 3D Drucker Düsen gibt es verschiedene Materialvarianten. Die Frage ist, wann macht welches Material Sinn?

Hier die wichtigsten Materialien:

1. Messingdüse:
   Der Klassiker ist Messing, denn Messing hat eine gute Wärmeleitfähigkeit, wodurch das Filament gleichmäßig aufgetragen werden kann. Die relativ günstigen Messingdüsen eignen sich sehr gut für Drucke mittlerer und niedrigerer Temperaturen. Sehr gut können PLA, ABS und PETG gedruckt werden.
   
2. Edelstahl:
   Edelstahl ist weniger wärmeleitfähig als Messing. Dafür ist es sehr robust und abriebfest, was es zu einer sehr langlebigen Option macht. Auch ist es eine gute Wahl für Drucke, bei denen Rostbeständigkeit wichtig ist. Edelstahldüsen werden vor allem für sehr präzise Drucke genutzt und für Drucke mit hohen Drucktemperaturen.
   
3. Gehärteter Stahl:
   Gehärteter Stahl ist sehr abriebfest und langlebig bei abrasiven Materialien wie Carbonfaser, Glasfaser oder metallverstärkten Filamenten.
   
4. Vernickelt:
   Vernickelte Düsen sind Messingdüsen, die eine dicke Schicht von Nickel haben. Verwendet werden vernickelte Düsen beim Standard-3D-Druck, wenn eine höhere Langlebigkeit gewünscht wird. Die Schicht von Nickel ist ein Schutzmantel gegen Korrosion und Abrieb.
   Vernickelte Düsen sind etwas teurer als klassische Messingdüsen, haben aber eine wesentlich längere Lebensdauer.
   
5. Kupfer:
   Kupfer ist der beste Wärmeleiter und empfiehlt sich für Hochpräzisionsdrucke bei hoher Druckgeschwindigkeit. Mit Kupferdüsen erhält man eine perfekte Druckqualität. Nachteil ist, dass Kupfer relativ weich ist und dadurch anfälliger für Abrieb und Korrosion ist.
   
6. Wolframkarbid:
   Wolframkarbid ist sehr abriebfest, langlebig und stabil, was es zu einer perfekten Wahl für Drucke mit Carbon, Keramik und Metallen macht. Die Abnutzung von Wolframkarbid ist sehr gering. Wolframkarbid ist in der Anschaffung teuer, steht aber mit seiner Langlebigkeit deutlich heraus.
   

Wie tauscht man die Düse eines 3D-Druckers aus?

Ist die 3D Drucker Düse deines 3D Druckers beschädigt, hat starken Abrieb erlitten oder druckt einfach nicht mehr präzise, so muss man diese gegen eine neue austauschen. Auch kann es sein, dass du für bestimmte Drucke eine andere 3D Drucker Düse benutzen möchtest und die 3D Drucker Düse wechseln musst.

Hier unsere Kurzanleitung!

1. Erhitze das Hotend

2. Entferne das Filament

3. Halte den Heizblock fest

4. Schraube die alte Düse ab

5. Installiere die neue Düse

6. Abkühlen und testen

Schau dir hier unser Video zum Düsenwechsel an:

Warum verstopft die Düse beim 3D-Druck?

Es gibt viele Gründe, warum eine 3D Drucker Düse verstopft. Hier haben wir typische Szenarien, die Grund für das Verstopfen sein können:

1. Falsche Temperatureinstellungen
Ist die Temperatur zu hoch oder zu niedrig, kann die Düse verstopfen oder eine unregelmäßige Extrusion stattfinden.
Was tun?
->Überprüfe regelmäßig die Temperatur des Hotends. Auch solltest du sicher sein, dass du die empfohlene Temperatur für das entsprechende Filament eingestellt hast. Es kann sinnvoll sein, ein Thermometer am Hotend zu verwenden, falls dein Computer nicht ganz korrekt misst.

2. Verwendung von minderwertigem oder kontaminiertem Filament
Wird Filament falsch aufbewahrt und hat Feuchtigkeit oder Schmutz aufgenommen oder handelt es sich ganz einfach um ein minderwertiges Filament, sollte dies nicht verwendet werden, denn das Risiko ist hoch, dass die Druckqualität sinkt und die Nozzle verstopft.
Was tun?
-> Du solltest einen vertrauenswürdigen Hersteller haben und eine sichere (Luft und Schmutzgeschützt) Aufbewahrung vom Filament garantieren. Bei feuchtem Filament kannst du einen Filamenttrockner verwenden, denn sonst können Blasen und Verstopfungen an der Düse entstehen.

3. Überextrusion oder Unterextrusion
Ist deine Extrusionsrate nicht richtig eingestellt kann die 3D Drucker Düse verstopfen.
Was tun?
-> Kalibriere deinen Extruder regelmäßig und verwende gegebenenfalls ein Kalibriertool, um die optimale Extrusionsrate sicherzustellen.

4. Drucken mit zu hoher Geschwindigkeit
Möchte man sehr schnell drucken, erhöht man das Risiko, dass die 3D Drucker Düse verstopft.
Was tun?
->Reduziere die Druckgeschwindigkeit oder passe andere Druckeinstellungen an, sodass keine Verstopfungen auftreten.

5. Falsche Retraction
Die Rückzugseinstellungen (Retraction) müssen optimal eingestellt werden, da auch hier sonst die Düse verstopfen kann.
Was tun?
-> Optimiere Länge und Geschwindigkeit von Retraction und überprüfe, ob der Rückzug richtig funktioniert.

6. Verwendung der falschen Düse für bestimmte Filamente
Bestimmte Düsen werden für bestimmte 3D Drucker Filamente genutzt. Wird dies nicht berücksichtigt, so können Verstopfungen entstehen.
Was tun?
-> Stelle sicher, dass du die richtige Düse für dein Filament verwendest. Im gegebenen Fall solltest du deine Düse mit einer passenden 3D Drucker Düse austauschen.

7. Unzureichende Kühl- oder Heizeinstellungen
Der Druckfluss kann von falschen Kühl und Heizeinstellungen beeinflusst werden.
Was tun?

-> Eine kontinuierliche Überprüfung deiner Kühl und Heizeinstellungen während des Druckprozesses ist sehr wichtig. Das Hotend sollte eine konstante Temperatur haben. Bei Schwankungen kann es zu Verstopfungen kommen. Achte also darauf, dass der Lüfter des Hotends richtig funktioniert.

8. Alte oder abgenutzte Düse
Ist deine 3D Drucker Düse verstopft, kann das daran liegen, dass die Düse alt oder abgenutzt ist.
Was tun?
-> Tausche deine alte oder abgenutzte Düse gegen eine neue Düse aus

9. Ausgefallener oder schlecht kalibrierter Extruder
Ist der Extruder schlecht kalibriert, so kann es zu Verstopfungen in der Düse kommen.
Was tun?
-> Kalibriere deinen Extruder regelmäßig und überprüfe deinen Extrudermotor auf Fehlfunktionen und Blockaden.

10. Verstopfungen am Hotend (Hitzekriechen)
Das sogenannte Hitzekriechen bezeichnet die Situation, in der das Filament bereits bis zum oberen Ende des Extruders geschmolzen ist.
Was tun?
-> Hotend und Extruder müssen gut isoliert sein, sodass die Wärme das Filament nicht bereits zu früh erhitzt. Stelle sicher, dass der Extruder während des Druckvorgangs nicht überhitzt. Gegebenenfalls solltest du die Isolierung vom Hotend und die Kühlung vom Extruder verbessern.

Fazit

3D Drucker Düsen sind ein essenzieller Bestandteil von 3D Druckern. Es gibt 3D Druck Düsen in verschiedenen Größen und Materialien. Je nach Druckart, Material und gewünschtem Endprodukt muss eine spezielle Düse gewählt werden.
Wenn eine 3D Drucker Düse verstopft, so müssen verschiedene Aspekte des Extruders, Hotends und der verschiedenen Einstellungen berücksichtigt bzw. überprüft werden, sodass man das Verstopfen der Nozzle verhindern kann und hochwertige 3D Drucke machen kann.

1. Why does mixed color printing produce stringing or oozing?

We can go to the Cura official website to report similar slicing problems. Some reasons may not be a problem with the machine. Issues related to stringing: 1. Different manufacturers and types of consumables 2. Slicing setting temperature 3. Slicing retraction length. It may also be the difference between the structure of the mixer cavity of the A30T print head and single-head printing. Please confirm the usage age of the 3d printer. If you want to replace accessories, you can search our Geeetech official website to purchase new accessories.

2. Why do those colors mix on the printing results?

We collected the real experience of fans. One of them shared as follows:

A30T prints fine in pla with 4mm retraction while pla+ always strings no matter what settings are used. If you want it to print better, you can try to replace the Boden tubes with a direct drive extruder. The only reason for these usages and this style extruder is so it can print faster without the extra weight at the hot end. But anytime it slows down in the print movements without extruding filament will keep expanding and will leave blobs or thick strings. So his fix was extra retraction and speed up the whole printer he used 5500.0mm/min and raised the allowed minimum speed reductions to 30% instead of 20% the slicer. He has used every printer he owned Simplify3D through USB.

3. How to correctly print mixed-color or color-separated models？

Here are some solutions that we offer to you.

A. For multi-extrusion printers to print mixed color or gradient models, you can operate in the following three ways:

1. Just slice the monochrome model through the slicing software, and operate the start color mixing ratio, end color mixing ratio, and color mixing height on the printer. This method is simple and direct.

2. Geeetech official provides EasyPrint slicing software, which can meet the user’s color mixing requirements through visual interactive operations. This method is more flexible and interesting.

3. Using Marlin Gcode instructions M163/M164/M166, you can print models with any color mixing requirements. For details, please refer to Marlin’s official website instruction usage format https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/. This method requires users to be familiar with the Usage of Marlin code.

B. For multi-extrusion printers printing color separation models, a wiper tower needs to be set up to ensure that the residual filament inside the nozzle is fully extruded onto the wiper tower after the filament is withdrawn. To achieve the best cleaning effect, you can try the size and volume of the wiper tower.

Whereas 3D printers using the same technology and marketed for about the same price usually do not vary much(theoretically) in terms of print quality, the results of post-processing can vary greatly depending on your expertise and skills. Simply put, you take either 100 percent blame or credit for your finished 3D prints.

So, what processes are involved in post-processing?

•Cleaning

In FDM, cleaning usually means to remove support structures from the object.

As we know, there are two types of support material: soluble and insoluble. Insoluble material is relatively strong and can only be removed with a spatula,knife or sheer brute force,leaving the model and print platform vulnerable from possible damage.

If you are lucky enough to own a dual extrusion setup, you may want to use soluble material for your supports. Soluble materials such as HIPS and PVA, can be dissolved in water or Limonene.

Check out our previous blog on how set up your 2 extruder 3D printer.

•Fixing

One way to circumvent supports is to have your model printed separately. This means you will have to manually attach together your parts. ABS prints can be welded or glued together using acetone. Here is a tip you should heed: when creating joints or keys for a model, make sure to create joining features large enough for the 3D printer to create them cleanly. Thumb of rule is that features should be larger than 4-5mm in diameter. Glued components should be secured together using rubber bands, and cyanoacrylate glue should be used to spot glue around the connecting areas. If seams are rough or have gaps, bondo or filler can be used to smoothen them.

•Surface finishing

Sanding

Layer lines are the bane of models printed using FDM technology. Carefully sanding the surface of the model with paper should get rid of the lines. This process requires delicate skills and great attention. Start with higher grit to lower as you go. Do not sand in one place for too long as friction-generated heat could melt the material. The downside to manual sanding is inconsistent results, as well as being laborious.

Smoothing

To give the print a glossy finish, chemicals are sometimes used. For example, Acetone and THF are used to smoothen the surfaces of objects printed with PLA and ABS. The problem with this technique is that it can not be controlled: sometimes features are melted off that should remain. On top of that, vapours can be harmful when inhaled.This can be avoided using closed chemical cleaning machines.

•Coloring

Coating and Painting

Surface finishing is often followed by painting. Parts need colouring would ideally be printed using white material. A layer of primer is usually applied before the model is painted,followed by another stage of sanding. Painting is usually done manually using a brush or spray(at an arms length). It is highly recommended that you hang the object in an open, dust-free,well ventilated space. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while paint is drying. The painted object should be ready to polish after 1-2 days.

Credit: beamler, 3der

Before reading this article, please make sure you have already read the setup guide of the version of the 13B single extruder and that you are able to use it to print 3D models. If not, please learn how to operate the single extruder. Of course, you can take this one as the single extruder version to get started.

Step 1

Open Repetier Host, and click Config/Printer Settings to set up the connection.

1. Name your printer.

2. Select the corresponding COM port and baud rate. The baud rate is generally 115200 or 250000.

3. If you are not sure about the COM port, you can check it in your device manager.

Step 2

Set up your extruder

1. Choose the number of extruders, here we choose
2. Select the diameter and color of the filament
3. Offset X/Y refers to the distance between the two extruders, which can be adjusted based on real situations. You can leave it alone now.

Step 3

Set up the shape of the printer

Choose Classic printer as the printer type.

Home X: min Home Y: min Home Z: min

Print height: 150

Now you can click the Connection button on the left corner to check whether it can connect with your printer. If it fails, please recheck the COM port and Baud rate.

Step 4

Manual control

1. X home

Click X home to home the X axis, or you can click the right/left arrow to move the axis to check whether the direction and distance are correct or not；

2. Check Y axis and Z axis respectively in the same way

3. Click the icon of the heated bed on RH to heat the bed. observe whether the temperature is rising to a pre-set value

4. Click the icon of the heated bed and extruder, observe whether it is heating up to the pre-set temperature, and keep it at that value

5. When the temperature for the extruder surpasses 170 °C , choose extruder1 and extruder2 respectively, you can move them and check their directions

Step 5

Leveling the two extruders.

Leveling the two extruders is very important if you want to print with two extruders at the same time.

First, you can adjust one extruder to make it parallel with the surface of the heated bed (the same way you level for a single extruder setup), click the button of Z home to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the heated bed, make sure the vertical distances of the nozzle to the four corners of the bed are the same.

After that, tweak the distance between the second extruder and the heated bed by adjusting the screws, as shown in the following picture: Loose the screws, and then you can move on to get the right distance between the two extruders and the heated bed.

you may need to repeat this step to get it all right.

But it’s worth it. Once you get it done correctly, you won’t need to do it again.

The settings mentioned above are on Repetier Host, which only involves the control of the 3D printer and the preview of the model.

All the settings do not concern the print result but the slicing. So we will continue with the slicing setting. The slicer is independent of Repetier Host. So, should we set up the slicer now? Take it easy. Let’s see whether our printer can run normally.

Step 6

If the printer goes well. We can go on with the slicing. First, let’s get a quick view of the slicer.

RepetierHost supports many slicers, with Slic3r and CuraEngine being the most popular; Slic3r is more powerful in terms of functionality, but CuraEngine comes with more optimized slice velocity.

You can choose a slicer here. Upon selecting the slicer, please click Configuration.RepetierHost will bring up a wizard of the corresponding slicer that will walk you through the configuration.

Here we take Slic3r as a demonstration. As to the configuration in CuraEngine, we will pick it up in the follow-up study in our forum www.geeetech.com/forum/, so, please stay tuned. If you are experienced in CuraEngine, we would appreciate it if you could.ld share your insights with us.

Next, download the file:two_color_cube.zip, unzip the file, and save it somewhere. You will need it later.

Step 7

Click Configuration， open Slic3r

Step 8

We have prepared a set of parameters for I3B_2E dual extruder, that is, I3B_2E_config_bundle.ini. You will need to import those parameters to slic3r from here.

In Slic3r, under file> Load Config Bundle.. navigate to the folder we just downloaded and unzipped, open I3B_2E_config_bundle.ini,

Step 9

After loading, you can find the option of Geeetech_I3B_2E in the drop-down menu.

In my case, I use the Geeetech pro-C model,(I refer to the I3B_2E in this article)， the extruder is MK8(1.75cm-0.4mm)， PLA filament, so we choose Geee_I3B_2E, PLA 1.75mm, and Geeetech_I3B_2E respectively.

All the parameters you set can be saved in RepetierHost for future reference.

Step 10

Unzip two_color_cube.zip， click Load to import the .stl files，choose two_color_cube_1.stl and two_color_cube_2.stl respectively.

Actually, two_color_cube is composed of two .stl files. each printed by one nozzle.

After loading, you can preview it. The two files are separated. Now you need to adjust the locations to combine them together.

Select Object Group 2 and click center, then Object Group 1 and center. Now the two models are combined as one.

Assign printing tasks for both extruders respectively.

Step 11: Slice

If this warning pops up, choose NO

G-code is generated successfully

Step 12: you can print directly via serial port (USB connector）or save the G-code to an SD card, and print stand-alone.

Step 13′: The end

This post was originally published on the Geeetech wiki page and is edited in this blog.

Please be noted this article was last modified on 11 August 2015, and hence is subject to changes, due to software updates and hardware upgrades over the years.

If you already have a dual extrusion system, we would like to hear from you. Share your story/experience with us by joining our forum or Facebook user club. You are also welcome to write on our blog to reach a larger audience.