The biggest environmental issue. What comes along with 3D Printing is the leftover plastic filament or spool after printing your  3D object.

Throwing away the filament in the trash is the only option you are left with. Therefore, there are broken pieces of it and joining them is a costly process. Hence, there comes a  filament fuser or joiner which many enthusiasts have already experimented with making. The below video explains how with the help of easy tools you can join the filaments.

There are many methods to recycle the filament and use it the next time. But the method shown in this article is more interesting and leads you to better 3D objects.

Plastic Smoothie Project

Designer Agustin Flowalistik shows us how to perform the recycling of 3D printer filament waste by creating a Plastic Smoothie, which can 0be used with a laser cutter to create vibrant objects. 

Agustin Flowalistik came up with an easy and cheap way to recycle failed designs and leftover filaments by making a concoct of a Plastic Smoothie. He uses the kitchen appliances and laser cutting technology. Therefore, you can create new objects with an endless array of colors. After collecting all the leftover filament and making it into a finely shredded plastic scrap, melt the colorful mess of plastic in an oven. With this freshly-baked sheet of recycled PLA, you can get creative.  Also, using a laser cutter and a bit of vibrant imagination.

We give a brief overview of the “Plastic Smoothie” project below so you can get what the project is about. He shared it on Instructables and was developed with the help of non-profit TecnoLab La Rueca Asociacion. Therefore, to increase the quality of life and well-being of disadvantaged communities. You can know more about how to effectively use plastic by controlling pollution here- Worry Not!! You Can Now Reuse Waste Plastic For Your 3D Prints.

Philosophy of the project

Affordable:  Electrical appliances are used for most of the projects as it is cheaper to use

Accessible: the machines used should be easily available in online stores.

Open: It’s an open-source project and anyone can be a part of it.

What do you need to do to overcome waste plastic/failed 3D prints?

The first thing that you need is an abundance of PLA filament scraps and failed prints. Also, access to a laser cutter that you will find on Fablab or local maker space. Therefore, if you want to know more about laser printing read here 3D Laser Printing is different from what you think.

There are other supplies needed for starting the plastic smoothie project, this is the checklist:

• Wood panels (40 x 30 x 0.3cm)
• Laser cutter (Flowalistik uses the Epilog Mini 18 40W)
• Blender (recommended 1250 Watts or above)
• Mini Oven (with oven tray)
• Parchment paper

Flowalistik shares some tips to make this project affordable, like using an old blender. Therefore, if you have any as if you start using it to shred plastic you won’t use it for making juice. Before using failed prints make sure to break them before blending them. You won’t want your blender to get damaged. He uses PLA for the project as ABS contains impurities.

Putting it all Together- Recycled 3D filament

The first step is gathering and blending your PLA filament. As a result, you can take the opportunity to decide the colors and textures you want to create. Once the recycled plastic is shredded up, take an over. Flowalistik uses oven paper on the base of the tray, bending the corners to avoid any molten plastic from spilling oven tray and start baking.

Finally, after experimenting the maker found that the best results by melting the small plastic bits at 190-200 C for 20 – 25 minutes. Once the plastic straps are melted, quickly remove them and flatten out on the wooden panels. Perform the pressing procedure quickly as the melted plastic cools down. Finally, keep the oven paper on the plastic and add as much weight as you can onto the wood panels, and you’ll have a perfect sheet of recycled PLA.

Finally, Flowalistik uses an Epilog Laser Mini 18 40W laser cutter to cut the 3mm plastic panels. You can use the same settings as you would for a 3mm sheet of acrylic. The designer adds that he had to increase the power of the laser in order to make the engraving more apparent.

Therefore, you can learn more about the Plastic Smoothie project and the laser cutting process on Flowalistik’s Instructables post. If you want to continue supporting the designer and his intriguing projects, head on over to his Patreon page.

Plastic pollution is what we are dealing with every day and thus we have to take every possible step to stop it. So do join the “Plastic Smoothie” project and get rid of all the plastic extras and failed prints.

Geeetech enlightens you on such projects which will help you save the environment. This is how you overcome the waste plastic by this useful recycling 3D filament process.

However, on some occasions, you may find your support fails to do its job resulting in a failed or messy print.

The 3D Printing support structure problem

While printing your object, you’ll realize that your support doesn’t look as stable as it should. There may be gaps and it may even fall apart or crack in some places. Weak supports are also stringy and overall your print just looks like a hot mess(not in a nice way!)

Why does it happen/ why support structure fail?

Slicer Settings

Most of the time we tend to stick to the default slicer settings provided by the slicer applications. This may work for standard print jobs. But while printing more complex objects it is important to change these settings. For objects like supports, your default slicer. Since the setting will not always work. The more complex the object and overhangs, the more attention you have to pay to the slicer settings.

Type of support used

Thinner support structures are easier to remove. But are not always strong enough and can break apart during your print process. On the other hand, stronger supports are denser but are much harder to pry off. At the same time, thinner supports may move easily if there are any sudden movements or vibrations from the 3D printer itself.

Many a time, tall and intricate prints will have delicate and thin supports so that they come off clean without ruining the print. Though this sounds good in theory, this kind of support doesn’t offer much stability to tall prints. Triangular and grid-shaped supports work better as they add additional structure under large overhangs.

Problem with the filament

Filaments that are old or cheap are weaker and tend to break more easily which is another reason why your supports don’t hold up. Old and expired filaments won’t bond easily to each other and the structure can tend to have more gaps and cracks.

Lastly, don’t forget to keep an eye on your printer. Many times, there are a few loose screws and nuts that can create vibrations during the print and if your support structures are not strong enough they will fall apart.

How to fix the 3D printer support structure fall?

Modify your support structures

Rather than choosing thin and delicate supports, opt for grid or block-shaped supports that can easily take the weight of overhangs without breaking down. You can choose triangular supports for objects that do not have sufficient adhesion to the print bed starting with a strong base.

Another cool thing to do is use water-soluble support material like PVA glue. In this way, you can increase the support density and make block-shaped supports without having to worry about them coming off.

Ensure sufficient adhesion

For a strong foundation, your 3D print must stick to the print bed. To increase this adhesion you can use the help of brims and rafts. Once your support has bonded to the print platform, it reduces the chances of it breaking or slipping off.

Use another filament

If your filament is old or absorbs too much moisture it can cause problems during your print job. You can check out our easy guide to store your filaments correctly and prevent common problems like snapping and stripping. And if the problem is true with the filament then change the filament and run a test print to see if there are improvements in the supports. Alternately, avoid buying cheap which will tend to break more easily.

Increase the support density

Thin supports will be more prone to breaking and falling apart. So to make your supports stronger, go into the slicer settings and increase the support density.  This will make your support sturdy but on the other hand, it will be tougher to remove them from your 3D print.

Tighten the grub screws

If the pulleys are not secured there will be many shifts and vibrations. This can shake the print and cause the supports and other parts of the print to wobble. To fix this problem, use an Allen key and tighten all the grub screws.

I hope this article provided complete information on troubleshooting of support structures 3D print fails to withstand the design.

3d printing involves different stages and processes of designing and printing. 3d designers use different software, different print in materials and printers, and sometimes most of them using a different printing technology suited to the product or item they’re printing. So it’s perfectly normal to feel lost until such a time where we feel like it seems difficult to design a perfect 3D model for 3D printing. Common mistakes 3D printing while designing and modeling to be avoided.

But not to worry! I’ve arranged a list to spot out the most common mistakes in designing and printing a 3d model and how to avoid these mistakes. Common mistakes 3D printing to be avoided are mentioned below.

Material Guidelines Ignorance:

The most important thing to keep in mind is that all the materials have different qualities like some are brittle, stiff, flexible, solid, dark or lightweight so on and so forth. At the time of designing, these qualities should be considered while using any particular material. So before starting anything, first you have to carefully examine or identify the design and the materials you need to use for the specific 3d model. For e.g., if you want to print your 3D model in Ceramics, there will be specific material-related design recommendations that you need to take into account such as supporting overhanging parts, strengthening elements that are sticking out, rounding off corners, etc.

For developing a successful 3d printing model, it’s essential to follow material guidelines.

Solution:

Before you start to work on your model, it’s essential to read the design guides. You can set a filter for specific materials on our site to get a better understanding of what designs other artists have created in what materials.

Software Guidelines of Ignorance:

The 3d Printing group of people uses different 3d modeling software packages. Some software is specially integrated to make 3d prints, while others are mostly used for 3d artists and designers so they can offer a great 3d printed model. In some cases, software programs offer automatic wall thickness application while the others you need to manually set it.

Each and every software has its own different functions and processes. Depending on which software you are using, shells must be joined together, models must be made watertight, and wall thicknesses need to be applied. For this, use software like Blender, Sketch Up, or ZBrush, however additional file preparation will need to be done.

Solution:

Before using any software, stick to software guidelines for creating a model into a 3D print. You can also use the free software, Meshmixer or Tinkercad for creating a hollow model if you’re a beginner in 3d Designing.

Printing Technology Ignorance:

After checking the materials needed for your 3d model, it’s time to check the 3d printing technology you need to use to print your model. For example, if you are using materials like ABS, Polyamide, Alumide, and Rubberlike, you can print the interlocking parts while the others are impossible. The reason behind this is not the material itself, but the technology that is used for printing each of these materials.

ABS we used Fused Deposition Modeling. Polyamide, Alumide and Rubberlike we use Selective Laser Sintering. The printing precious metals we use lost wax casting. While for Resin we use Stereolithography (liquid polymer-based).

Solution:

You need to remember that the designing stage is the key. Check the materials you’re going to use and see its equivalent printing technology. Also, keep in mind that the maximum printing sizes differ when you use different printers and technologies.

Wall Thickness Ignorance:

Wall thickness Problems are the basic common reasons why some 3D models are not printed. If the walls of 3D model are thick, then it causes internal stress, and there is a bad effect on the item also. On the other side, if the wall thickness is too thin, then it’s not able to print small parts on the model.

Wall thickness ignorance can cause trouble while printing products for your client. It is essential to check always on the wall think of the model that you want to get printed.

Solution:

https://youtu.be/NRb6cRTCXkU

Read some blogs and watch tutorials about getting the perfect wall thickness for your 3D model. It will help you to get rid out of this problem.

File Resolution Ignorance:

Read the design guides? Know your material? Clear what software you will need? Is Wall thickness ok? Great, but now there is another important thing to discuss: File resolution.

As we all are aware, we save our 3D printing design in STL format. While exporting your designs to STL format, you have the check on the resolutions. Too high or too low resolutions can cause troubles. The best solution to file resolution – at the time of exporting a file defines the tolerance for the export.

Solution:

It is wise to choose 0.01 mm for good file export. Because exporting with a tolerance smaller than 0.01 mm does not make sense because the 3D printers cannot print at this level of detail. When exporting with a tolerance larger than 0.01 mm, triangles might become visible in the 3D print. I hope the article related to common mistakes 3D printing to avoid while designing and modeling is helpful.

Credits: youtube.com, Pinterest.com, Linkedln. 

Your print may start out looking fine but as it progresses, you notice a shift in between the layers. It looks similar to a step and this effect is known as a layer shift. It may be subtle or could end up ruining your print entirely! So to overcome this troubleshooting layer shift problems while 3D printing process.

Why does it happen?

There are many different reasons that contribute to shifting in the layers. So it’s hard to pinpoint it to just one. The most common, however, is the slipping of pulleys and loose grub screws. But it could also be something as simple as nudging your printer and causing a disturbance in the print job.

How to fix layer shift problems by troubleshooting?

Fix the Print Bed firmly in place 

Check the print bed to see if there are any clips or screws that have become loose. Since printers have detachable print beds it’s a common problem that occurs. But also one that can be fixed easily with the help of pliers.

Similarly, ensure that the printer is on a stable and secure base. As well as kept in an area where it is not prone to be knocked or hit. You’ll notice that even a small disturbance to the printer. During your print job can cause shifting or other layer issues.

Fix the grub screws

When there are sudden shifts in layers, it’s most probably due to one or more pulleys not secured properly to the axis/axes. You can check this when your layers start to shift and notice the pulleys moving and consequently tighten the respective grub screws. Use a small Allen to tighten them.

Check the belts

Another important thing to check is the tension of the belts. You can adjust the belt position to ensure the tension is the same between all the belts. However, if the problem persists and if you’ve had your printer for a while then you should probably change the belts.

Fix stiff rods by oiling them

Rods can get stiff and encounter resistance over time which affects the print and causes shifts in the layers. Ideally, the print head should move around easily without resistance. you can perform a simple check to test this.

Turn off the power and check the head by moving it manually in both X and Y direction. If the head moves around stiffly then its time to oil the rods with some light machine oil.

Check the alignment of the rods

Misalignment in rods is another reason that contributes to stiffness. Again perform a check by moving the head to the left/right side and consequently to the front/back of the printer. The distance between the sliding blocks and the pulleys should be equal on both sides. If the axes aren’t square you can fix this by loosening the screws on the two pulleys of one rod, adjust the sliding block and then re-tighten the screws.

Apart from this, check if your rods are bent by removing them and rolling them on a flat surface. You’ll instantly realize if they’re deformed or bent and can replace them.

Check for warped layers

Warping takes place when there is uneven cooling between the layers which results in the edges rising up. If this happens, the print can release from the bed and this makes it much easier for the layers to shift. You can combat warping by adjusting the speed of the cooling fans but if the problem continues, check out our Troubleshooting Guide To Fix Warping.

Decrease the print speed

Many a time, the reason could simply be that your printer is printing too fast. A clicking sound heard during the print job indicates this and you should first check to see if the filament is slipping and if not, then proceed to reduce the print speed by going into your slicer settings.

I hope this troubleshooting layer shift problems that can be overcome by the article are useful and easy.

Credits: rosso3d.com, doubltjumpelectric.com, ultimaker.com, 3dprinting.stackexchange.com

Your 3d print may have seemed successful while printing it but once it’s finished you notice gaps and holes in the outer layers. This is known as pillowing and though it is frustrating after spending hours on a print, there are some easy ways to prevent it from happening again! How to fix pillowing here we go!

Why does pillowing happen?

There are several reasons why these gaps and holes form on the 3d print. If the print’s top layer itself isn’t thick enough then pillowing is more common as well as if there isn’t sufficient cooling of layers.

Luckily with a few adjustments and changes in your print settings, you can avoid it from occurring again.

How To Fix pillowing 3D print:

1. Use a cooling fan

You may have the optimal settings but if your layers don’t cool properly it could contribute to pillowing. Use a 3D printer fan with settings set to low for the initial layers and after the first few layers, the fan speed can increase. If you are using a cooling fan already here are a few things to check for

• Position– Check if your fans are positioned correctly so that maximum airflow is aimed toward your print.
• Fan Speed- Without proper cooling, the material will tend to curl up at the places where it crosses the infill lines and forms gaps in the top layer. For best results, ensure that the fans are running at the maximum fan speed as per the cooling settings.

2.  Increase the Thickness of the Top/Bottom layers

Since pillowing occurs on the top or outer layer, the best solution is to increase the thickness of this layer. A layer that is too thin at the top will be more prone to gaps and holes. Increasing the thickness will seal or close the “gaps” that are otherwise seen when pillowing takes place.

Ideally, the top/bottom thickness should be at least 6 times that of the layer height. For example, if your layer height is 0.1mm then the Top/Bottom thickness should be set to 0.6mm and you can even take it up to 0.8mm to make it full proof.

To edit these settings, check the advanced section of your print application, under the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’.

3. Increase infill percentage

Apart from increasing the top/bottom thickness, check your infill settings as well. If the fill density is set at a default of 5-10%, you should increase it to at least 20% and retry the print.

4. Use another filament size

If all else fails then consider switching to another 3D printer filament size. The gaps and holes you see during pillowing could simply be from your filament. It’s a common problem seen in filaments of 1.75 mm. You can avoid the problem by switching to a filament of size 2.85mm as it will allow for better control and higher extrusion rates on wider nozzle diameters. Run a test print to see if the problem is solved! Make use of these tricks to prevent your 3D print by pillowing. I hope this how-to-fix pillowing article is helpful to you guys in making your 3D print look better and more attractive.

Why is it happening

A small piece of filament has been left behind previously in the nozzle after changing spools, often when the filament has snapped off at the end. When the new filament is loaded, the piece of old filament that is left in the nozzle doesn’t allow the new filament to be pushed out.

A little printer maintenance can go a long way to reduce the chance of problems like a clogged nozzle. You’ll find that even before a clog appears, there is old carbonized filament stuck inside your nozzle. Weeks or even months may pass without you realizing it, but there will be small signs in the quality of your prints.

Small changes in your print quality like nicks in the outer walls, and small flecks of dark filament are often overlooked because it’s hard to tell if there is a problem or some variations. But if it continues then it’s a sign to acknowledge there may be a clogged nozzle creating these problems. You can find out more solutions here via the 3d printing troubleshooting guide.

When does it happen

If you frequently switch between filaments like ABS and PLA then this problem occurs quite a bit. The difference in melting points of various filaments is what is attributed to a blocked nozzle. Some amount of PLA is left behind in the nozzle. When heated beyond its normal melting point, it will carbonize and burn which causes the blockage.

Similarly, a switch between ABS and Nylon does the same and you may see a wisp of smoke appear briefly as the new filament is fed through.

So keep these in mind if you use a variety of different filaments for your 3d print jobs.

The Atomic Pull or Cold Pull is one of the best solutions to fix this problem!

How to fix it

1. UNBLOCK WITH A NEEDLE

Unblocking can be a quick and easy process if you’re lucky. Start by removing the filament and using your printer’s control panel, select the “heat up nozzle” setting and increase the melting point of the stuck filament. No control panel on your printer? No problem. Connect your printer to a computer running compatible control software and heat the nozzle using that. For PLA set the temperature to 220 C. Once the nozzle reaches the correct temperature, use a small pin to clear the hole carefully, and don’t burn your fingers! If your nozzle is 0.4mm then you need a smaller pin.

2. PUSH THE OLD FILAMENT OUT

If you find that the nozzle is still blocked then you may be able to push the filament through with another bit of filament. Start by removing the filament as before and then remove the feeder tube from the print head. Heat the hot end to 220 C for PLA and then using another piece of filament push this through from the top to try to force the stuck filament in the nozzle out. Usually, if new filament hasn’t succeeded in unblocking then the extra pressure you can exert by hand might just do the job. However, don’t push too hard as you’ll risk bending the horizontal printer rods.

Once the end clears use a needle to push through the nozzle and a brush to clean any filament excess.

3. DISMANTLE AND REBUILD THE HOT END

In extreme cases when the nozzle remains blocked, you’ll have to dismantle the hot end. If you’ve never done this before then make notes and take photographs of every step so you know where everything fits when you reassemble. Start by removing the filament, then check your printer’s manual to see exactly how to dismantle the hot end.

4. ATOMIC PULL PART I – CHOOSE A MATERIAL

You can use ABS or Nylon for this, but though most consistent results come from Nylon due to its higher melting point, ABS is more common, however, so we’ll use it here.

 PART II – REMOVE FILAMENT

First off, remove the 3d printer filament that’s already in the print head in the usual way for your printer. Then the Bowden tube or release the direct drive, so that when the time comes you can manually feed the filament out.

PART III – INCREASE THE NOZZLE TEMPERATURE

Depending on the filament, increase the nozzle temperature. We’re using ABS so increase it to 240 degrees, but if using nylon check the melting point temperature on the packaging. Leave the printer at this temperature for 5 minutes without pushing the filament out.

PART IV – PUSH THE FILAMENT THROUGH

Apply some pressure to the filament, slowly until it starts to come out of the nozzle. Pull it back slightly and push it back through again until it starts to flow out through the nozzle.

PART V – LOWER THE NOZZLE TEMPERATURE

Reduce the temperature. For ABS- 180 degrees and 140 degrees for Nylon (you’ll need to experiment a little for your filament).  Again, leave the printer at this temperature for 5 minutes.

PART VI – TAKE OUT THE FILAMENT

Extract the filament from the head. When you look at the end, you will see some black carbonized material there. Repeat the process until it’s all clean. If the filament won’t pull from the nozzle, increase the temperature of the hot end slightly.

And there. Your problem should be fixed! Try out a couple of prints just to check. Happy Printing!

Today we will continue with our topic on “troubleshooting guide to 19 common 3D printing problems”, and provide practicable solutions for you  3D printing hobbyists!

3D Printing Problems #10: Over-Extrusion

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Over-extrusion means that the printer supplies more material than needed. This results in excess material on the outside of the model printed.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Typically, the Extrusion multiplier or Flow setting in your slicing software is too high (see the section above)

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Over-Extrusion

1. Extrusion multiplier. Open your slicer software and check that you have the correct Extrusion multiplier selected.
2. Flow setting. If that all looks correct then decrease the Flow setting in your printer’s software.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Over-Extrusion

• Check you have the right extrusion multiplier settings
• Decrease the filament flow settings

3D Printing Problems #11: Shifting Layers

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The lower and top layers shift so that you get a stepping effect through the print. Usually, it’s quite subtle, but these images show a print with a more pronounced effect.

What’s Causing the 3D Printing Problem?

There’s a variety of reasons for shifting layers, and these can be as simple as someone knocking on the printer during the print process! More involved shifting layer problems can be down to bent or misaligned rods, or even the nozzle catching on the print and causing a slight shift in the position of the platform.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Shifting Layers

1. Check that the printer is on a stable base. Place the printer on a stable base and in a location where it will avoid being knocked, pocked, and generally fiddled with. Even a small nudge of the printer can shift the print base and cause issues.
2. Check the print base is secure. Most 3D printers use some form of detachable print base. Although this is handy when it comes to removing prints, and of course avoids damage to the printer, it also means that over time clips and screws can work loose. Make sure that when you reinstall the print platform it’s clipped or bolted tightly in place to avoid any slip or movement.
3. Watch out for warped upper layers. If you’re printing a high-quality print upper layers can easily warp if cooled too quickly. As the layers warp they rise and can obstruct the nozzle as it moves, in most cases, the print will release from the platform, but if it doesn’t the powerful stepper motors can push the print and platform around.  If your prints are suffering from warping in the upper layers try reducing the speed of the fans slightly.
4. Printing is too fast for your machine. It is possible to speed up the print times for your machine by increasing temperature and flow. However whilst this may result in the filament flowing in the correct quality the rest of the machine may struggle to keep up. If you hear a clicking during printing this could be a sign that the printer is going to fast. If you do hear a click the first port of call is to check that the filament isn’t slipping before you take a look at the actual printer speed. To adjust your printer’s speed open up your slicer software and change the print speed.
5. Check the belts. If layers are still shifting then it’s time to check the belts. A quick check is to just go around all belts and pinch the two together. The tension in each belt should be the same, if not then you’ll need to adjust the belt position to even out the belt tension. Over time the rubber belts will stretch (You can often tell if they do as they’ll start to slip on the drive pulleys), if there is quite a bit of play in the belts then it’s time to replace them with new ones. Over-tight belts can also be an issue but this is usually only a problem if you’ve built the machine yourself. Some printers such as the Prusa i3 have belt tensioning screws that enable you to easily adjust the belt tensions.
6. Check the drive pulleys. These are usually connected directly to a stepper motor or to one of the main rods that drive the print head. If you carefully rotate the pulley you’ll see a small grub screw. Hold onto the rod take hold of the attached belt and then tug the belt and try to force the pulley to turn. You should find that there is no slip between the pulley and stepper or rod if there is tighten the grub screw and try again.
7. Check the rods are clean and give them some oil. Over time debris can build up on the rods which means that at some points along their length, they cause more friction than others, which in turn can affect the free movement of the head and again cause layer shifting. A quick wipe and re-oil of the rods usually solves the issue.
8. Bent or misaligned rods. If you see the print head falter at certain points then it could be that one of the rods has become slightly bent. You can usually tell by switching off the machine so there’s no power going through the steppers and then moving the print head through the X and Y axes. If you feel resistance then you know something is amiss. Start by seeing if the rods are aligned, if then remove the rods and roll them on a flat surface. If any are bent then it will be quite obvious.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Shifting Layers

• Check that the printer is on a stable base.
• Check the print base is secure.
• Watch out for warped upper layers.
• Printing is too fast for your machine.
• Check the belts.
• Check the drive pulleys.
• Check the rods are clean and give them some oil.
• Bent or misaligned rods.

3D Printing Problems #12: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

You initiate a print job but whatever you try, nothing comes out of the nozzle. Extracting the filament and reinserting doesn’t work.

What’s Causing the 3D Printing Problem?

A small piece of filament has been left behind in the nozzle after changing spools, often because the filament has snapped off at the end. When the new filament is loaded, the piece of old filament that is left in the nozzle doesn’t allow the new filament to be pushed through.

Alternatively, a build-up of molten plastic at the end of the nozzle has hardened and will need manual removal. Specialist, cheap, or old filaments are a common cause.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

1. Unblock with a needle. If you’re lucky then unblocking can be a quick and easy process. Start by removing the filament. Then using the control panel select the “heat up nozzle” setting and increase to the melting point of the stuck filament. In the case of the Ultimaker 2 go to Maintenance > Heat Up nozzle. For PLA set the temperature to 220 C. Once the nozzle reaches the correct temperature, use a small pin to clear the hole (being careful not to burn your fingers). If your nozzle is 0.4mm then you need a smaller pin; an airbrush cleaning kit works perfectly. It’s also worth getting a brass cleaning brush to remove any filament build-up on and around the nozzle.
2. Push old filament through. If you find that the nozzle is still blocked then you may be able to push the filament through with another bit of filament. Start by removing the filament as before and then remove the feeder tube from the print head. Heat the hot end to 220 C for PLA and then using another piece of filament push this through from the top to try to force the stuck filament in the nozzle out. Usually, if new filament hasn’t succeeded in unblocking then the extra pressure you can exert by hand might just do the job. However, don’t push too hard as you’ll bend the horizontal printer rods.
   Once the end clears use a needle to push through the nozzle and a brush to clean any filament excess.
3. Dismantle and rebuild the hotend. In extreme cases when the nozzle remains blocked, you’ll need to do a little surgery and dismantle the hot end. If you’ve never done this before then it’s a good idea to make notes and take photographs so you know where everything fits when you reassemble. Start by removing the filament, then check your printer’s manual to see exactly how to dismantle the hot end.

In the case of the Ultimaker 2, it’s all quite straightforward. At all times during this procedure be aware that the hot end will get hot so a pair of heatproof gloves is advised (e.g. welder’s gloves).

For the Ultimaker 2 move the print head to the center of the printer. Undo the four screws on top of the print head and let the hot end and fans hang down.
Increase the temperature of the hot end to 220 C (For PLA) and wait for the hot end to reach the temperature. Once the printer reaches the correct temperature switch off the power.

Holding onto the plastic fan housing use a pair of tweezers through the top of the nozzle to grab hold of the offending filament and extract.

Use a needle to push all the way through and then a brass cleaning brush to remove any excess filament.

Switch the printer off and leave it to cool.

Once completely cool reassemble, switch on, and load a new spool of filament.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

• Heat the nozzle and clean with a needle and brass cleaning brush
• Remove the feeder tube and try pushing the filament through with another piece of filament
• Dismantle the hot end and see if you can extract the filament blockage

3D Printing Problems #13: Snapped filament

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The filament spool still looks full, and when you check there appears to be a filament in the feed tube, but nothing’s coming out of the nozzle. This is more of an issue with Bowden feed printers than direct feed as the filament is hidden so breakages aren’t always immediately obvious.

What’s Causing the 3D Prinseveralting Problem?

Caused by several issues but primarily old or cheap filament. Although the majority of filaments such as PLA and ABS do last a long time, if they’re kept in the wrong conditions such as in direct sunlight then they can become brittle. Then once fed into the printer no amount of adjustment is going to help.

Another issue is filament diameter, and this can vary by manufacturer and batch. Sometimes if the idler tensioner is too tight then some filament that still has a good amount of life left in it can snap under the pressure.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Snapped Filament

1. Remove the filament. The first thing to do is to remove the filament from the printer in the usual way. In the case of the Ultimaker select Maintenance and Change Material. As the filament will usually have snapped inside the tube you’ll need to remove the tube from both the extruder and hotend. Then heat the nozzle and pull out the filament.
2. Try another filament. If after reloading the filament it happens again, use another filament to check to see if it’s not just the old brittle filament that should be disposed of.
3. Loosen the idler tension. If the new filament snaps check that the idler tensioner isn’t too tight by loosening all the way. As the print starts to tighten until there is no slippage of the filament.
4. Check the nozzle. Check the nozzle isn’t blocked and give it a good clean.
5. Check flow rate and temperature. If the problem continues check that the hotend is getting hot and to the correct temperature. Also, check that the flow rate of the filament is at 100% and not higher.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Snapped Filament

• Check the filament isn’t past its best
• Check the filament diameter
• Adjust the idler tension
• Check that the hot end is clear and reaches the correct temperature
• Set the flow rate to 100%

3D Printing Problems #14: Stripped filament

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Stripped or slipping filament can happen at any point of the print process and with any filament. The result is that no filament is extruded from the hot end bringing your print to an abrupt end.

What’s Causing the 3D Printing Problem?

Blockage, loose idler tensioner, and wrong hotend temperature are just a few of the common causes, but all are usually easy to correct. The result of the problem is that the knurled nut or toothed gear in the extruder is unable to pull or push the filament through the printer. As the motor spins the small teeth on the gear that would usually grip and feed the filament through the system, instead wear it away until there is no longer any grip, and the gear and filament slip.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Stripped Filament

1. Help feed the system. If the filament has just started to slip, you can usually tell by the noise and the appearance of plastic shavings, then apply some gentle pressure to the filament to help it through the system. This will often help to get the machine to print smoothly again.
2. Adjust the Idler tension. Start by losing the idler, feed in the filament, and tighten until it stops slipping. Filaments vary in diameter so although the idler will absorb some difference in diameter some filaments will require fine adjustment.
3. Remove the filament. In most cases, you’ll need to remove and replace the filament and then feed it back through the system. Once the filament has been removed cut the filament below the area that shows signs of slipping and then feed back into the system. If the filament has snapped it may be passed its usable best. Try it again and if it snaps again and you find the filament appears brittle discard and use another filament.
4. Check the Hot end temperature. If you have just inserted a new filament as the issue started, double-check that you have the right temperature.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Stripped Filament

• Help feed the system
• Adjust the idler tension
• Remove the filament
• Check the hot end temperature

3D Printing Problems #15: Broken Infill

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The internal structure of your print is missing or broken.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

There are several reasons for the misprinting of the internal structure. The most common is incorrect settings within the slicing software, but it can also be due to a slightly blocked nozzle.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Broken Infill

1. Check the Fill density. In your slicing software check the infill density. A value of around 20% is normal; any less than this and you’re likely to have issues. For larger prints, you may want to increase this to ensure that the model has enough support.
2. Infill Speed. The speed at which the infill is printed can have a major effect on the quality of the structure. If the infill is looking weak then decrease the infill print speed.
3. Change the pattern. Most slicing software enables you to change the internal structure. You can have a grid pattern, triangle, honeycomb, and more. Try selecting a different option.
4. Check your nozzle. It might be that there is a slight blockage in the nozzle. While the blockage doesn’t affect the printing of the thicker exterior walls because there is less flow for the internal structure the filament is getting caught.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Broken Infill

• Check and adjust the Fill Density
• Decrease the Infill Speed
• Try a different infill pattern
• Check your nozzle for blockages

3D Printing Problems #16: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The final print looks fine but an outline of the internal support structure can be seen through the walls of the print.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The ghosting issue happens due to the infill encroaching into the path of the perimeter. This effect is most visible when your print has thin walls. The problems are caused by the infill structure overlapping with the perimeter line as it’s being laid down. Although this ghosting is an issue it’s an important part of the printing process, as it helps the internal structure bond effectively to the external walls. Luckily it’s very easy to overcome.

Another cause of ghosting can be that you have set an incorrect wall thickness about the size of the nozzle that you’re using. In normal print conditions, the size of the nozzle should be directly related to the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle then the wall thickness should be a multiple of this, either 0.4, 0.8, 0.12, and so forth.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

1. Check the shell thickness. Make sure that the value you have selected for the shell thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size.
2. Increase the shell thickness. The easiest solution is to increase the shell thickness. By doubling the size it should cover any overlap caused by the infill.
3. Use Infill after perimeters. Most slicing software will enable you to activate Infill prints after perimeters.
   • In Cura open up the ‘Expert Settings’ and under the Infill section tick the box next to ‘Infill prints after perimeters’
   • In Simply3D Click ‘Edit Process Settings’ then select ‘Layer’ and under ‘Layer Settings’ select ‘Outside-in’ next to the ‘Outline Direction’.
4. Check print platform. Check the model and if you see that the effect is more prevalent on one side than the other, the effect could be due to calibration. If so run through the usual calibration process.
5. Use it to your advantage. Depending on the type of model that you’re printing you can use the internal and shell printing order to your advantage. When you want a high-quality print with a good surface finish where the actual strength of the model isn’t important, select print from the Outside-in. If however the strength of the print is paramount then select Print from Inside-Out and double the wall thickness. The reason for the difference in strength is that when you print from the Outside-in you eliminate the small amount of overlap that causes the ghosting issue, but this also means that the actual structure won’t create the same strength of the bond between the internal and external structure due to the lack of overlap.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

• Check the shell thickness.
• Increase the wall thickness.
• Use Infill after perimeters.
• Check the print platform and recalibrate if necessary.
• Use it to your advantage.

3D Printing Problems #17: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

When you look at the top or bottom of the print, you can see a slight gap between the infill and the outer perimeter walls.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Gaps between the perimeter and top layers used to be a common problem, but as printer accuracy has improved and the support for different materials extends, it’s now less of an issue than it was.

However the new wave of advanced materials are far less forgiving than the likes of PLA and ABS, and we’re starting to see a slight resurgence of the problem.
Gaps are caused by the filament used for the infill and outer walls not quite meeting bonding and are a relatively easy fix.

The most obvious cause of the problem is that the infill overlap is not set, or it’s set to “0”. This means that the slicing software is telling the printer not to allow the two parts of the print to meet.

Another issue could be the order in which you have set the infill and outer perimeters to be printed. If you’re printing the perimeter first for a high-quality print then there is generally little or no overlap which can again cause the problem.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

1. Check the infill overlap. This is by far the most common issue and is easy to resolve. In your slicing software locate the ‘Infill Overlap’ option and increase the value.
   • In Cura by default, this is set to 15% so raise it to 30%.
   • In Simplify3D you’ll find the option in ‘Edit Process Settings > Infill > Outline Overlap’ again to increase the value. This setting is directly linked to the extrusion width, so the % value will be a % of whatever you’re extrusion width is. When adjusting this setting always keep it below 50% or you’ll start to see the effects of the overlap in the outer perimeters of your print.
2. Printing infill before the perimeter. If you’re printing with a relatively thin outer wall the structure of the infill can show through. If this happens then you can switch the order by which the printer lays down the infill and perimeter layers. For example, in Cura check to see if you have ‘Infill prints after perimeters’ ticked.
3. Increase Hot end temperature. Some of the latest advanced materials such as XT-CF20 are a little less forgiving when it comes to spreading due to the carbon fibers that make up part of their structure. When printing with these materials you may find that a slight 5-10º increase in hotend temperature makes all the difference.
4. Slow it down. Okay, so you may be in a rush to get the printout, but printing at higher speeds can cause all sorts of issues if the printer isn’t perfectly calibrated. If you need to print quickly you can still avoid gaps by decreasing the speed of the top layer.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

• Check the infill overlap.
• Printing infill before the perimeter.
• Increase Hot end temperature.
• Slow it down.

3D Printing Problems #18: Non-Manifold Edges

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Parts of your print are missing or the final print is weak and falls apart despite the exterior quality of the print looking fine. Sections of the print look completely different from the print preview or the final print has geometry errors that make no sense.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Non-manifold edge is the common cause of misshapen or odd prints. Non-manifold edges are the edges of models that can only exist in the 3D space and not the physical world.

For example, if you have two cubes in the real world and try to overlap them directly, it’s physically impossible as the solid outer walls prevent the two objects from intersecting.

In the 3D world you can simply intersect the two, they still exist as individual objects, but the software we use also enables them to intersect in the virtual world.

In order to get the two to print correctly, the objects need to be merged so that any inner walls are removed and an object with a single undivided inner cavity is left.

Another common cause is if you have an object such as a cube and delete one of the surfaces. You essentially have an object with a hole, it might look like a shape with five sides, but it only exists in the virtual 3D space, this is geometry with no physical form.

Although you can see the outer walls in the software, the walls that meet the hole only have dimensions in two axes. The third dimension which we see as the thickness of the wall is only illustrative and has no real physical dimension. When it comes to slicing the model the software does its best and in many cases will repair the hole, however, in more complex models the effects can be interesting, to say the least.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Non-Manifold Edges

1. Use the latest slicer software. Most of the latest slicer engines all support the automatic fixing of non-manifold edges but it’s still good practice to ensure that your models are correctly formed and print ready.
2. Fix in Horrible in Cura. In Cura open Expert Settings and make sure that under ‘Fix Horrible’ you have Combine everything (Type-A) ticked.
3. Fix ‘Non-manifold’ in Silmplify3D. In edit ‘Process settings’ click the ‘Advanced’ tab and select ‘Heal’ next to ‘Non-manifold segments.
4. Use the layer view. In your slicer software use the layer view to check through the model so you can see where the issues appear. A quick slide through the layers will often highlight an easy-to-fix problem.
5. Use software to fix issues. One of the easiest ways to fix models with non-manifold edges is to use software; Blender and Meshmixer both have features built in that will quickly enable you to highlight problems with your models and fix them before slicing.
6. Merge objects. It’s better to fix your 3D models before importing them into your slicing software. To do this, make sure that when you have two objects that do intersect or overlap you choose the appropriate Boolean function to either intersect, merge, or subtract.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Non-Manifold Edges

• Keep your slicer software up to date.
• “Fix Horrible” (in Cura).
• “Fix Non-manifold” (in Simplify3D).
• Use the layer view to check for mistakes.
• Use software like Blender or Meshmixer to fix issues.
• Merge objects.

3D Printing Problems #19: Model Overhangs

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

You load your print into your slicing software and everything looks good. Hit print and you find that some parts of the model print fine, whilst other parts end up as a stringy mess. OK, this might seem obvious and the issue of overhangs is often seen as a 3D printing rookie mistake. But it’s surprising just how often even experienced 3D printers are hit with an overhang issue.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The process of FFF requires that each layer is built upon another. It therefore should be obvious that if your model has a section of the print that has nothing below, then the filament will be extruded into thin air and will just end up as a stringy mess rather than an integral part of the print.

Really the slicer software should highlight that this will happen. But most slicer software will just let us go ahead and print without highlighting that the model requires some type of support structure.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Model Overhangs

1. Add supports. The quickest and simplest solution is to add support. Most slicing software will enable you to do this quickly. In Simplify3D click Edit Process Settings > Support > Generate support material; you can adjust the amount, pattern, and settings. In Cura just click the Support type from the Basic settings.
2. Create in-model supports. Supports generated by software can be intrusive so creating your own in your modelling application is a good alternative. It takes a bit more skill but can enable some fantastic results.
3. Create a support platform. When printing a figure, arms and other extrusions are the most common areas that cause problems. Using supports from the print bed can also cause issues as they often have to span quite large vertical distances; for structures that are supposed to be easily removed and fragile, this distance is prime for causing problems. Creating a solid block or wall under arms etc and then creating a smaller support between the arm and block can be a great solution.
4. Angle the walls. If you have a shelf-style overhang then an easy solution is to slope the wall at 45º so that the wall supports itself and removes the need for any other type of support.
5. Break the part apart. Another way to look at the model is to break it apart and rather than print in one section make two. With some models, this enables you to flip what would be an overhang and make instead make it a base. The only issue with this is that you then have to find a way of sticking the two parts back together.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Model Overhangs

• Add supports
• Create in-model supports
• Create a support platform
• Angle the walls
• Separate the model and print smaller parts
• Now all the potential troubles that might pop up during printing are all listed here. Hope that these two posts will make your creative process smoother and more fascinating!

You’ve checked the model, and seen countless others make it without issue, but try as you might it just won’t print. What is it that keeps going wrong? This article will help you to quickly diagnose your 3D printing issues, and find the solution with our 3D printer troubleshooting guide. Discover how and when these 3D printing problems occur, and the steps you can take to avoid them in the future.

19 Common 3D Printing Problems: Overview

If you don’t know the name of your problem, you can refer to the following 19 problems.

1. Warping

2. Elephant Foot

3. More First Layer Problems

4. Layer Misalignment

5. Missing Layers

6. Cracks in Tall Objects

7. Pillowing

8. Stringing

9. Under-Extrusion

10. Over-Extrusion

11. Shifting Layers

12. Blocked Bowden Nozzle

13. Snapped Filament

14. Stripped Filament

15, Broken Infill

16. Ghosting of the Internal Structure

17. Gaps Between Infill and Outer Wall

18. Non-Manifold Edges

19. Model Overhangs

3D Printing Problems #1: Warping

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

At the base of the model, the print bends upwards until it’s no longer level with the print platform. This can also result in horizontal cracks in the upper parts.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Warping is common as it’s caused by a natural characteristic of the plastic. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Warping

1. Use a heated print platform. The easiest solution is to use a heated print platform and set the temperature to a point just below the plastic melting point. This is called the “glass transition temperature”. If you get that temperature right then the first layer will stay flat on the print platform. The print platform temperature is often set by the slicer software. You’ll normally find the recommended temperature for your filament printed on the side of the packaging or the spool.
2. Apply glue. If you still find your print lifting at the edges then apply a tiny amount of stick glue evenly on the bed to increase adhesion.
3. Try a different platform type. Change your print bed to one that offers better adhesion. Manufacturers such as Lulzbot use a PEI (Polyetherimide) print surface that offers excellent adhesion without glue. XYZPrinting supplies a textured tape in the box with some of their printers, basically a large sheet of masking tape, and again adding this works excellently, although only with nonheated print platforms. Zortrax 3D printers have a perforated print bed, models weld themselves to this surface eliminating the issue.
4. Level the Print platform. Print platform calibration can be another cause, run through the calibration process to check that the bed is level and nozzle height is correct.
5. Increase contact. Increasing the contact between the model and the bed is an easy fix and most print software has the option to add rafts or platforms.
6. Adjust advanced temperature settings. If all else fails then you’ll need to take a look at your advanced print settings both on your printer and in your print software. Try increasing the print bed temperature by increments of 5 degrees.
   In the slicer software take a look at the fan cooling, this is usually set so the cooling fans switch to full power at a height of around 0.5mm, try extending this to 0.75 to give the base layers a little more time to cool naturally.
   Even if your printer has a heated print platform, it’s always recommended that you use glue and regularly calibrate the bed level.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Warping

• Use a heated print platform
• Add Stick glue to the print platform
• Swap from glass to an adhesive print bed
• Calibrate print bed
• Add platforms or rafts
• Adjust advance the temperature and fan settings

3D Printing Problems #2: Elephant Foot

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The base of the model is slightly bulging outwards, otherwise known as the “elephant foot”

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

This ungainly effect can also be caused by the weight of the rest of the model pressing down the first layers when the lower layers haven’t had time to cool back into a solid – particularly when your printer has a heated bed.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Elephant Foot

1. The right balance. To stop elephant foot appearing in your 3D prints the base layers of the model need to be cooled sufficiently so that they can support the structure above, but if you apply too much cooling to the base layers you can create warping. Getting the balance right can be tricky, start by lowering the temperature of the print platform by intervals of 5 degrees, (within +/- 20 degrees of the recommended temperature). If your  Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6mm then start the fan after the fan at a slightly lower height.
2. A level base. More often than not the majority of print issues can be traced back to the level of the print platform. Each printer has a slightly different technique for print platform leveling. Start by using your printer manufacturer’s recommended procedure. Then print a calibration cube and just watch how the filament is laid down. From printing the cube you should be able to see if the filament is being laid down evenly, if the nozzle is too close to the print platform and scraping through the molten filament, or too high and causing the filament to blob.
3. Raise the nozzle. Just raising the height of the nozzle slightly can often help, but be careful too high and it won’t stick to the platform.
4. Chamfer the base. If all else fails then another option is to chamfer the base of your model. Of course, this is only possible if you have either designed the model yourself or you have access to the original file. Start with a 5mm and 45º chamfer, and experiment to get the best result.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Elephant Foot

• Balance print platform temperature and fan speed
• Level the print platform
• Check the nozzle height
• Chamfer the model base

3D Printing Problems #3: More First Layer Problems

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The first layer does not stick properly, and some parts come loose. There are unwanted lines at the bottom.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

These 3D printing problems are typical signs that the print bed hasn’t been leveled properly. If the nozzle is too far away from the bed, the bottom surface often shows unwanted lines, and/or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result.

Also important: the print bed has to be as clean as possible. Fingerprints on the plate can prevent the first layer from sticking to the plate.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: More First Layer Issues

1. Level the print bed. Every printer has a different process for print platform leveling, some like the latest Lulzbots utilize an extremely reliable auto-leveling system, others such as the Ultimaker have a handy step-by-step approach that guides you through the adjustment process, and then there’s the Prusa i3 that takes skill and determination.
2. Adjust the nozzle height. If the nozzle is too high then the filament won’t stick to the platform, too low and the nozzle will start to scrape the print off.
3. Clean the print platform. Every so often it’s a good idea to give the glass print platform a good clean, especially if you apply glue. The grease from your fingerprints and the excessive build-up of glue deposits can all contribute to the non-stickiness of the print platform.
4. Add glue. Applying a thin layer of glue to the print platform will help add a little more adhesion if you do this make sure you give the bed a clean at regular intervals as the over-application of glue can have the reverse of the desired effect.
5. Textured sheet for cold print beds. On cold print platforms, a common solution is to apply a stick-on film or sheet that increases the adhesive properties of the print platform.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: More First Layer Issues

• Level the print platform
• Check nozzle height
• Clean print platform
• Add Glue
• Textured sheets for cold platforms

3D Printing Problems #4: Layer Misalignment

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Some layers in the middle of the objects have shifted.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The printer belts aren’t well-tightened. The top plate isn’t fastened and wobbles around independently of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z-axis is not perfectly straight.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Layer Misalignment

1. Check the belts. Start by checking each of the belts is tight but not over-tight. You should feel a little resistance from the two belts as you pinch them together. If you find that the top section of the belt is tighter than the bottom then this is a surefire sign that they need a tweak and tighten.
2. Check the top plate. Check the top plate and all rods and attachments at the top of the printer and make sure everything is tight and aligned.
3. Check the Z-axis rods. Many printers use threaded rods rather than lead screws and although these do the job they do tend to bend over time. Don’t worry about dismantling your printer to see if they’re straight, simply use software such as ‘Printrun’ to move the print head up or down. If one of the Z-axis rods is bent you’ll instantly see. Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to accurately straighten a rod once it’s bent, but on the upside, it’s a good excuse to replace the old threaded rods with lead screws.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Layer Misalignment

• Check the tension in the belts
• Check there’s no movement in the top plate
• Make sure the Z-axis rods are straight

3D Printing Problems #5: Missing Layers

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

There are gaps in the model because some layers have been skipped (in part or completely).

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The printer failed to provide the amount of plastic required for printing the skipped layers. This is called (temporary) under-extrusion. There may have been a problem with the filament (e.g. the diameter varies), the filament spool, the feeder wheel, or a clogged nozzle.

Friction has caused the bed to temporarily get stuck. The cause may be that the vertical rods are not perfectly aligned with the linear bearings.

There is a problem with one of the Z-axis rods or bearings. The rod could be distorted, dirty, or had been oiled excessively.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Missing Layers

1. Mechanical check. It’s good practice to give your 3D Printer the once-over now and again and the appearance of gaps in your 3D print is always a good sign that now is the time to give your 3D printer some love and attention. Start by checking the rods and make sure that they’re all seated into either bearings or clips and haven’t popped out, shifted, or moved even slightly.
2. Rod alignment check. Make sure that all rods are still in perfect alignment and haven’t shifted. You can often tell by switching off the power (or disabling steppers) and then gently moving the print head through the X and Y axes. If there is any resistance to the movement then something is wrong and it’s usually pretty easy to tell if this is due to misalignment, a slightly bent rod, or one of the bearings.
3. Worn bearing. When bearings go they usually let you know about it by creating an audible din. You should also be able to feel the uneven motion in the print head and when printing the machine looks like it’s vibrating slightly. If this is the case unplug the power and move the print head through the X and Y to locate the region of the broken bearing.
4. Check for oil. Lubricating the joints is easy to forget, but keeping everything well-oiled is essential to the smooth running of the machine. Sewing machine oil is ideal and can be purchased for almost any haberdashery at a relatively inexpensive price. Before you go applying liberally just check that the rods are clean and free of dirt and printing debris, a quick wipe of the rods before applying the fresh coat of oil is always a good idea. When all rods look clean just dab on a little, but not too much. Then use print such as Printrun to move the head through the X and Y axis to make sure that the rods are evenly covered and moving smoothly. If you add a little too much oil don’t worry just wipe some off with a lint-free cloth.
5. Under-Extrusion. The final issue could be under-extrusion and finding the solution for this can be cumbersome.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Missing Layers

1. Check over the mechanics and make sure everything is tight
2. Double-check the printer’s construction and alignment
3. Listen out for worn bearings and bent rods
4. Add a little oil to keep things running smooth

3D Printing Problems #6: Cracks In Tall Objects

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

There are cracks on the sides, especially on taller models. This can be one of the most surprising issues in 3D Printing as it tends to manifest itself in larger prints, and usually whilst you’re not looking.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

In higher layers, the material cools faster, because the heat from the heated print bed doesn’t reach that high. Because of this, adhesion in the upper layers is lower.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Cracks In Tall Objects

1. Extruder temperature. Start by increasing the extruder temperature; a good start would be to increase it by 10ºC. On the side of your filament box you’ll see the working hot end temperatures, try to keep the temperature adjustment within these values.
2. Fan direction and speed. Double-check your fans, make sure that they’re on and aimed at the model. If they try reducing their speed.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Cracks In Tall Objects

• Check the hot end temperature and raise it at 10-degree intervals
• Check the position and speed of the cooling fans

3D Printing Problems #7: Pillowing

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The top surface of the print shows unsightly bumps or even holes.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The two most common causes are improper cooling of the top layer and that the top surface isn’t thick enough.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Pillowing

1. Filament size. More common with 1.75 mm filament. Pillowing is an issue that can affect all 3D printers, however, it’s far more common on those using 1.75 mm filament over 2.85mm.
2. Check the fan position. Cooling is normally the issue start by checking your fans. As the print starts your printer fans will be set to low or off, after the first few layers have printed they should kick into action. Check that the fans around the hotend start to spin, then as the print finishes check the fans are all good and working. If all seems OK just double-check that the direction of the fans is correct and that they’re pushing cool air toward your print and not elsewhere.
3. Set fan speed in G-Code. Another cooling issue happens when each successive top layer of molten plastic is applied. As it covers the inner support structure it needs to be cooled quickly to avoid falling into the holes between the supports. The speed of the fans can be adjusted in the G-Code, a common G-Code for Fan On is M106 and is M107 Fan Off. You then just need to the Fan speed to maximum for those top layers.
   An example would be a 1cm x 1cm cube printer at 0.1mm layer height. The G-Code, in this case, outputs through CURA for the Prusa i3, we can look through the code and see that there are 97 layers. Knowing that we have a ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’ of 0.6mm we can look back to; LAYER:91 than in the line after adding M106 S255. M106 sets the fan going and S255 sets it to full blast.
4. Increase top layer thickness. The easiest solution is to increase the top layer thickness. Most applications will enable you to do this in the advanced section, under the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’. You’re aiming for at least 6 layers of material normally and up to 8 for smaller nozzles and filaments. If your layer height is therefore set to 0.1mm then set the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’ to 0.6mm. If the effect of pillowing still exists then increase to 0.8mm.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Pillowing

• Go large and increase the filament size
• Make sure the fans are up to speed and position
• Manually set the fan speed
• Increase the top layer thickness

3D Printing Problems #8: Stringing

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

There are unsightly strings of plastic between parts of the model.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

When the print head moves over an open area (otherwise known as travel move), some filament has dripped from the nozzle.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Stringing

1. Enable Retraction. Retraction is an important factor when it comes to quality of finish and can be enabled through most slicing software. Its function is pretty simple and works by retracting the filament back into the nozzle before the head moves. The idea is that it avoids molten filament from trailing behind the head creating thin strings in its wake.
2. One-click retraction activation. Most applications such as Cura offer a one-click activation option, this uses a set of default parameters and for the most part, is perfectly adequate. However, if you want a few more options there are often more settings buttons. Here you can adjust the minimum travel of the head before retraction is activated.
3. Minimum travel (mm). Reducing the minimum travel is usually the quickest fix for stringing if the standard retraction isn’t doing the job. Drop the value in 0.5mm until stringing is stopped. Activating retraction will increase your print speeds.
4. Just cut them off. This isn’t the most elegant of solutions but simply taking a scalpel to the strings is quite often the quickest and easiest solution, and has the benefit that it doesn’t increase print times.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Stringing

• Enable retraction
• Adjust the minimum travel before retracting starts
• Just clean the print with a scalpel

3D Printing Problems #9: Under-Extrusion

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Under-extrusion is when the printer cannot supply the material needed (or as fast as needed). Under-extrusion results in thin layers, layers with unwanted gaps, or missing layers entirely.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

There are several possible causes. First, the diameter of the filament used does not match the diameter set in the slicing software. Secondly, the amount of material that is extruded is too low because of faulty slicer software settings. Alternatively, the flow of the material through the extruder is restricted by dirt in the nozzle.

3D Printer Troubleshooting: Under-Extrusion

1. Check the filament diameter. Start with the simplest issue, have you set the correct filament diameter in the slicing software? If you’re unsure about the diameter the value along with the recommended temperature is usually printed on the box.
2. Measure the filament. If you’re still not getting the results you want and filament flow is the issue, then use a set of calipers to double-check the filament diameter. You should be able to tweak the filament diameter settings accurately in the slicer software settings.
3. Check the head. After printing, most printers will lift the printhead away from the print base. Quickly check that the nozzle is clear from a build-up of filament and dirt.
4. Set the extrusion multiplier. If there is no mismatch between the actual filament diameter and the software setting, then the extrusion multiplier (or flow rate or flow compensation) setting may be too low. Each slicer application will handle this slightly differently but the principle is to increase the setting in steps of 5% and then restart the print process.
   In Simplify3D open the Edit Process Settings dialog and go to the Extruder tab – the Extrusion multiplier setting of 1.0 corresponds to 100%; In Cura open the Material tab and increase the Flow setting (you may need to enable the Flow setting through the Preferences dialog).

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Under-Extrusion

• Check the filament diameter
• Use calipers to measure the filament diameter
• Check that the hot end is clear
• Adjust the extrusion multiplier at 5% intervals

We will continue to provide another 10 common issues concerning 3D printing. Please stay tuned to our blog!