3D printing technology, as a newly emerging innovation in recent years, gained momentum and is now undergoing a surprise shakeup in this huge marketplace. As 3D printing becomes more accessible, it is becoming more common within the home, workplace, and public libraries, and moreover, it helps boost the charity career. In this article, I would love to get you informed about a non-profit organization- e-NABLE.

Introduction of e-Nable

E-NABLE is an online global community of “Digital Humanitarian” volunteers from all over the world who are using their 3D printers to make free and low-cost prosthetic upper limb devices for children and adults in need. People who are suffering the loss of fingers, hands, or even arms because of innate diseases, accidents, or wars will gain their hopes from such an assistive technology out of 3D printing.

Source from YouTube

Touching stories from the community

“Give the World a Helping Hand”

• The positive shifts and mutual feedback from the child have made everything come with love. This is what e-NABLE does, spreading love worldwide with every possibility.

Cam, a 5-year-old boy who gets the brightest smile when he laughs, is confident and outgoing, yet he still hides his hand subconsciously sometimes. His brightest-ever day came when he got his first 3D-printed arm in his life. Such an artificial arm swept all his concerns and uneasiness while he felt even more confident and innovative in the inspiration of this printed hand in a copy shape from the one of Iron Man. From then on, he became a volunteer of e-NABLE either, on behalf of the child spokesman. He is even more confident when he faces hundreds of people in front, adults or children.

“He has learned how to turn the printer and computer on, and he even knows how to edit a file with the assistance of other people,” said Cam’s mom, a volunteer at e-NABLE.

• Everyone is not a sage of perfection. We gain more love and hope from those imperfections.

One day in December 2012, little boy Liam finally got an artificial hand of his own with the assistance of e-NABLE. After several tries and practices on handling his new printed plastic hand, he succeeded in grabbing a ball up with that. His mom, who stood right aside, burst out crying with happiness.

As for the other people who possess a healthy physical situation, grabbing a ball is just a casual and simple movement. But for this little boy Liam and his mom, that is hope. They hope for the upcoming future and happiness in every piece of their life.

The volunteer map

Richard Van As, a carpenter from South Africa met Ivan Owen, an engineer from Washington DC. in November 2012. They started running their 3D printing public welfare aiming to build more “Hands” for everyone who was in need of it. What they had done was also posted on YouTube. As the video went viral, more and more people started paying close attention to such a group.

“If you’re willing to receive inquiries from people who need a robohand, put yourself on the map! I’ve put a user-editable map on Robohand’s Facebook and Thingiverse pages.”

Dr. Jon Schull is a scientist from Rochester Institute of Technology, he had built up a map that connects the volunteers all around the world. It was the map that triggered a grassroots movement. And more than 70 volunteers marked their position on the map within six weeks. That’s how the e-NABLE platform formed.

All volunteers nursed the same ambition, they gathered together on the platform and shared their ideas while striving to design various rebounds for different kids.

What’s the most surprising thing is that e-NABLE not only offers a “hand”, but lets those kids in need liberate their imaginations. They allow kids to choose the color and texture on their own. Red or blue? Smooth or carved? They get what they want.

“Can I get my new hand glow in the dark?”

“I want it to be a Spider-man type!”

Their lives aren’t of darkness, they shine thanks to e-NABLE. They glitter thanks to the great 3D printing technology.

This week in Geeetech 3D Maker Salon LIVE TALK #33, we will invite Maria Esquela who is an active e-NABLE volunteer and leader from enablingthefuture.org, a 501c3 non-profit organization to share some of the projects she has done so far.

Let’s stay tuned!

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There are 3D model repositories all over the web, but cookie-cutter models are particularly in high demand. Many options are available on the site. Below, we’ll offer 10 Christmas-themed designs that can be used to make marvelously shaped cookies.

Our Geeetech A-series 3D printers can fulfill all your print demands. Here we recommend you use the food-safe material such as PLA and the filler like food-safe epoxy or Polyurethane to resist the growth of bacteria in prints.

Now, with that out of the way, let’s dive into the fun! 

• Santa Claus

Using about 20 grams of filament, the cookie cutter of Santa’s face with hat and mustache details takes about an hour to print. You can choose 0.3-mm layer height because the details are secondary.

Found on: Thingiverse

• Christmas Tree

This cookie-cutter design is an outline of a basic Christmas tree and can print speedily without any difficulties.

Found on: Thingiverse

• Christmas Ornament

This cookie cutter has star-shaped spaces, which enable you to make 3D-raised stars. What’s more, colorful icing will deepen and give a better sense of what the final stars will look like.

Found on: Cults

• Snowflake Cookies

There are a bunch of snowflake cookie cutters available. You can try a 0.2-mm layer height and a 5% infill to print this snowflake cookie cutter with the Customizer app.

Found on: Thingiverse

• 3D Benchy Cookies

At present, the 3D benchy model is ubiquitous in 3D printing. In addition to testing every aspect of your 3D printer’s ability, it is also a fun model to print.

Found on: Pinshape

• Gingerbread Man

The gingerbread man model achieves some fun details by using 3D indentations. You can draw on the gingerbread with whatever cream you like. when 3D printing this model, using a 0.25-mm layer height and a 30% infill are preferred.

Found on: Thingiverse

Without a doubt, you can’t bear some minor flaws in the surface of a 3d printing model, let alone “String”. You complained that this printer is such trash contrary to expectations. At that time, you may get mad but it will eventually end up in a mess. So firstly you need to calm down. Take a close look at what is the exact problem, make it clear how it happened, and how we can solve the problem. Let’s dive in.

What’s the Problem?

3D Printing Stringing exists when small plastic strings are left behind on a 3D-printed model. This is usually due to plastic leaking from the nozzle as the extruder moves to a new position.

How to fix this？

In this article, we bring 5 solutions that can be commonly used on all the major 3D printers.

1. Enable Retraction

Enabling retraction is the most ordinary way to fight against 3D printer stringing. Enabling retraction means that when the extruder has to pass through a gap, the filament is retracted a little bit by the feeder. Once the extruder reaches the next position, the filament is pushed out and the print continues again from the nozzle. If the retraction setting is turned on and you’re still experiencing 3D printer stringing, you may then need to go into the details of the retraction settings:

• Retraction distance

The most important retraction setting is the retraction distance. This determines how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle. Generally speaking, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to seep out as it moves. Most direct-drive extruders only require a retraction distance of 0.5-2.0mm. If you run into stringing with your prints, try increasing the retraction distance by 1mm and test again to see if the performance improves.

• Retraction speed

The next retraction setting that you should check is the retraction speed. This determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If the retraction is too slow, the plastic will slowly leak out of the nozzle and may begin to leak before the extruder moves to its new position. If you retract too quickly, the filament may separate from the hot plastic inside the nozzle, or the rapid movement of the drive gear may even grind away pieces of your filament. There is usually an optimal retraction point between 1200-6000 mm/min (20-100 mm/s).

If standard retraction isn’t doing the trick, you can try to reduce the minimum travel. This is usually the quickest solution to fix stringing issues. Drop the value by 0.5mm until the stringing has stopped completely.

2. Set the Right Temperature

The 3d printer extruder temperature is the next most common cause for stringing. If the temperature is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle will become less sticky and more likely to leak out. However, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will be one kind of solid and difficult to extrude from the nozzle. If you thought you had the right retraction settings but still have these problems, you can try to decrease your extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees. This will greatly improve the quality of your printing.

3. Movement Speed

Moreover, increasing the movement speed of your machine can also reduce the time it takes for the extruder to leak as it moves between parts. The X/Y Axis Movement Speed represents the side-to-side travel speed and is frequently directly related to the range of time your extruder spends moving over open air. As long as your machine can move at higher speeds, increasing this setting may reduce stringing between parts.

4. Thoroughly Clean the Nozzle Before Printing

When you use a printer for a long time, the filament can leave a thin residue layer in 3d printer nozzle. This thin layer can cause 3D printer stringing as filament strands will try to stick to the surface of your printed part. To avoid such a problem, ensure your nozzle is thoroughly cleaned before print.

5. Keep Your Filaments Moisture-Free

PLA, which absorbs more water than ABS, is the main culprit. The water turns to steam when the plastic is heated up, and it can mix with the plastic to increase the likelihood that it will seep out during non-printing movements.

Therefore, it is very important to store the filament properly, especially if you live in a humid environment. For more guidance, check out the previous blog here：How to store filament? 

You must be disappointed when seeing blobs marring our 3D prints.,which is commonly called“zits” ,can occur due to the frequent start and stop of extruder as it moves around.These blobs on your model represent the position where the extruder began to print a part of the outer shell and then returned to the same position after printing the perimeter.Without leaving a mark, it’s hard to connect two pieces of plastic , but here we figure out two tips to keep the blobs from occuring on the surface of your print.

Tip 1:add a negative extra restart distance

Finding out where they are occurring is vital to reduce blobs.You should make sure if blobs happen at the beginning of the perimeter,or as the perimeter finishes printing.If it is the former, the extruder is most likely priming too much plastic.To solve this problem,you can attempt to adjust your retraction settings,add a negative extra restart distance. For example, if your retraction distance is 2.0mm, the extra restart distance decreases by 0.4mm, and each time the extruder stops, the filament will be retracted 2.0mm .But when it starts again, 1.6mm of the filament will be pushed back into the nozzle.You ought to keep tweaking this number until there are no blobs.

Tip 2:turn the “coasting” setting off 

If you find that the blob is happening as the extruder finishes printing a perimeter,it is posssible that the built-up pressure inside the extruder nozzle pushes out more plastic than expected. In this instance, the best solution is to turn off a setting called “coasting” just before the end of the perimeter ,which can relief some of the built-up pressure within the extruder.Try turning this feature on and increasing the value until the blobs stop appearing.

So that’s the solution to the blobs. Now I am printing a larger Pokemon toy.I can’t go wrong this time, for the sake of my beloved girl.

Source:　https://www.simplify3d.com/preventing-blobs-on-3d-print/

Before reading this article, please make sure you have already read the setup guide of the version of the 13B single extruder and that you are able to use it to print 3D models. If not, please learn how to operate the single extruder. Of course, you can take this one as the single extruder version to get started.

Step 1

Open Repetier Host, and click Config/Printer Settings to set up the connection.

1. Name your printer.

2. Select the corresponding COM port and baud rate. The baud rate is generally 115200 or 250000.

3. If you are not sure about the COM port, you can check it in your device manager.

Step 2

Set up your extruder

1. Choose the number of extruders, here we choose
2. Select the diameter and color of the filament
3. Offset X/Y refers to the distance between the two extruders, which can be adjusted based on real situations. You can leave it alone now.

Step 3

Set up the shape of the printer

Choose Classic printer as the printer type.

Home X: min Home Y: min Home Z: min

Print height: 150

Now you can click the Connection button on the left corner to check whether it can connect with your printer. If it fails, please recheck the COM port and Baud rate.

Step 4

Manual control

1. X home

Click X home to home the X axis, or you can click the right/left arrow to move the axis to check whether the direction and distance are correct or not；

2. Check Y axis and Z axis respectively in the same way

3. Click the icon of the heated bed on RH to heat the bed. observe whether the temperature is rising to a pre-set value

4. Click the icon of the heated bed and extruder, observe whether it is heating up to the pre-set temperature, and keep it at that value

5. When the temperature for the extruder surpasses 170 °C , choose extruder1 and extruder2 respectively, you can move them and check their directions

Step 5

Leveling the two extruders.

Leveling the two extruders is very important if you want to print with two extruders at the same time.

First, you can adjust one extruder to make it parallel with the surface of the heated bed (the same way you level for a single extruder setup), click the button of Z home to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the heated bed, make sure the vertical distances of the nozzle to the four corners of the bed are the same.

After that, tweak the distance between the second extruder and the heated bed by adjusting the screws, as shown in the following picture: Loose the screws, and then you can move on to get the right distance between the two extruders and the heated bed.

you may need to repeat this step to get it all right.

But it’s worth it. Once you get it done correctly, you won’t need to do it again.

The settings mentioned above are on Repetier Host, which only involves the control of the 3D printer and the preview of the model.

All the settings do not concern the print result but the slicing. So we will continue with the slicing setting. The slicer is independent of Repetier Host. So, should we set up the slicer now? Take it easy. Let’s see whether our printer can run normally.

Step 6

If the printer goes well. We can go on with the slicing. First, let’s get a quick view of the slicer.

RepetierHost supports many slicers, with Slic3r and CuraEngine being the most popular; Slic3r is more powerful in terms of functionality, but CuraEngine comes with more optimized slice velocity.

You can choose a slicer here. Upon selecting the slicer, please click Configuration.RepetierHost will bring up a wizard of the corresponding slicer that will walk you through the configuration.

Here we take Slic3r as a demonstration. As to the configuration in CuraEngine, we will pick it up in the follow-up study in our forum www.geeetech.com/forum/, so, please stay tuned. If you are experienced in CuraEngine, we would appreciate it if you could.ld share your insights with us.

Next, download the file:two_color_cube.zip, unzip the file, and save it somewhere. You will need it later.

Step 7

Click Configuration， open Slic3r

Step 8

We have prepared a set of parameters for I3B_2E dual extruder, that is, I3B_2E_config_bundle.ini. You will need to import those parameters to slic3r from here.

In Slic3r, under file> Load Config Bundle.. navigate to the folder we just downloaded and unzipped, open I3B_2E_config_bundle.ini,

Step 9

After loading, you can find the option of Geeetech_I3B_2E in the drop-down menu.

In my case, I use the Geeetech pro-C model,(I refer to the I3B_2E in this article)， the extruder is MK8(1.75cm-0.4mm)， PLA filament, so we choose Geee_I3B_2E, PLA 1.75mm, and Geeetech_I3B_2E respectively.

All the parameters you set can be saved in RepetierHost for future reference.

Step 10

Unzip two_color_cube.zip， click Load to import the .stl files，choose two_color_cube_1.stl and two_color_cube_2.stl respectively.

Actually, two_color_cube is composed of two .stl files. each printed by one nozzle.

After loading, you can preview it. The two files are separated. Now you need to adjust the locations to combine them together.

Select Object Group 2 and click center, then Object Group 1 and center. Now the two models are combined as one.

Assign printing tasks for both extruders respectively.

Step 11: Slice

If this warning pops up, choose NO

G-code is generated successfully

Step 12: you can print directly via serial port (USB connector）or save the G-code to an SD card, and print stand-alone.

Step 13′: The end

This post was originally published on the Geeetech wiki page and is edited in this blog.

Please be noted this article was last modified on 11 August 2015, and hence is subject to changes, due to software updates and hardware upgrades over the years.

If you already have a dual extrusion system, we would like to hear from you. Share your story/experience with us by joining our forum or Facebook user club. You are also welcome to write on our blog to reach a larger audience.

Assembly & Set Up

Set up your 3D printer as per the instructions. No matter how experienced you are, your vendor supposedly knows the products better than you do. It is recommended that you use parts, software, and materials from the same brand wherever you can to get the best experience. Remember, every 3D printer has its characteristics. Be open to some trial and error down the road.  

Software Update

Keep your system up to date. Manufacturers and slicer companies are constantly experimenting with their software and firmware to fix bugs and improve performance. If your machine features an automatic update, enable it.

Maintenance

Perform regular maintenance and calibration on your 3D printer: Form and maintain a routine of checks; keep your filaments from moisture and dust; calibrate the bed.

Supports

Bear in mind the 45-degree rule and 5mm rule. Any overhangs of above 45 degrees(or 60 degrees depending on your printer) may require supports. Just like overhangs, not all bridges require support. Consider supports only when the bridge is more than 5mm long. “Rafts”, and “brims” are great support tools to increase adhesion. Add support structures to your design for any steep overhanging features or models that have a small base.

While supports are great for some cases, you may want to avoid them, for the following reasons: first, they consume extra filament; second, the print takes longer time; and finally, removing the support structure of the print can be a pain. If you are still not sure whether you need support, run a test print to find out. You can also use your creativity to make the support structures part of your design, in case you think them necessary. Ways to circumvent supports: reorient your model; reduce the overhang angles; and split your model into smaller parts.

The first layer

Your first layer is the foremost important layer of your print. Make sure it sticks well to the bed. Again, support structures, a heated bed, and glue all are great tools to help with adhesion.

Details

Examine the details of your model. Are there any tiny projections or parts that are too small to print on a desktop 3D printer? In your printer, there is a very important but often overlooked variable, that is the line width, which is determined by the diameter of the printer nozzle. Most printers come with a nozzle of 0.4 mm or 0.5 mm in diameter.

Routine check for printer

Prior to your print: make sure to form and follow a routing of checks: whether the nozzle is blocked or broken, or the traps are loose；whether the motor bearing and linear rails are in want of oil, whether the platform is calibrated, clean,and etc. Ensure that a clogged nozzle is fixed; any broken or aging components are replaced in time, lubricating oil are added regularly; and that loosened nuts are tightened.

Inspection during Printing

During Printing: parameter settings should not exceed the recommended range for your printer, otherwise, desired objects would not be printed, and problems such as too high a nozzle/bed temperature or excessive load would damage the machine. Shut down the system when a problem has been detected, and only resume printing after the problem has been fixed. When removing the 3D print, do not use brute force or any object that could damage the print bed.

Double-check after printing

Finally, after printing, repeat step one: remove any sign of dirt on the nozzle, print platform, guide rail, motor, fan, and other parts of the 3D printer so that it does not accumulate over time. Keep your machine and filaments in a dust-free, dry environment. Also, make sure the spools are not tangled.

Bonus tip: Use fewer brands of the 3D printing filament, it will harm 3D printers if we mix lots of brands’ filaments on them. The reason is that printers and filaments from different manufacturers differ to various degrees in their performance and features. For example, filaments you buy from Geeetech are pre-tested on Geeetech’s 3D printers, as a result, they work best with these machines.

Nozzle setting

(1) The 3D printer nozzle is moving too fast.

To save time, some people are inclined to set the speed of the print job higher than what the driver motor is capable of, causing the tool head to fail to reach the desired position.

Solution: In your slicer software, set the speed at 40 to 60mm/s. Alternatively, you may adjust your speed by turning the knob, if you do not wish to stop your print.

(2) Nozzle deviates from the desired position

This happens when the extruder is traveling from one point to another of the print without the Z axis elevating the tool head. The nozzle then hits the object and is pushed away from its intended position. Because the system is unable to detect the deviation, it will continue with the print job, resulting in layer shifting.

Solution: In the settings, readjust the Z- offset to 0.3mm

Mechanical disorder

Most 3d printers use belts to let the motor control the position of the nozzle. Over time, the belt may stretch, which can impact the tension used to control the nozzle. If the tension becomes too loose, the belt may slip on the pulley, which means the pulley is rotating, but the belt is not moving. If the belt is too tight, this can also cause problems. Tightened belts can create excess friction in the bearings that will prevent the motor from spinning. Ideally, the belt is installed tight enough to prevent slipping, but not too tight to stop the system from rotating.

Solution: manually adjust the belt for proper tension. Regularly check and maintain your 3D printers.

Layer shifting could also occur when the motors fail to spin as a result of not getting enough electrical current; or when the model exceeds the size of the print bed, which causes the nozzle to lose its position at the edges. Finally, make sure there is no external force imposed on your printer, for any level of external force could interfere with the moving of the belts.

Any questions or ideas? Leave us a comment in the comments section or email us. We would love to hear from you.

• After you have leveled the build platform,do not forget to make sure the nozzle is at the optimal starting distance from the bed. If the problem persists after you have leveled the bed, try moving the nozzle closer to the bed for better adhesion. (note: if the nozzle is too close to the bed, it may not extrude. Follow the guide/tutorial provided by your vendor). Check out the video below on how to manual level the platform on Geeetech A30T:.

• If you start out printing at a high speed, chances are the plastic will detach from the bed. This is because the first layer is denied the time required to cool down and lay onto the platform. Go to the settings and reduce the speed of the first layer by 50% to see if it helps.

• Use a heated bed and set the bed temperature slightly below the melting point of the material. Picture this: you are 3D printing a 100mm wide ABS object; the extruder prints at a temperature of 230 degrees, but the platform is cold.The plastic cools quickly as it is being extruded out of the nozzle. If the ABS print is cooled to room temperature of 30 degrees, it will shrink by 1.5mm!

• Make sure the bed is clean and not polluted with dirt or oil. Apply some glue on it to promote adhesion. Go easy on the glue: a thing layer spread evenly on the bed will do the trick. What is worth mentioning is that different printers use different types of print beds, the most common ones being aluminum,glass,and etc. But not a single type of them works best with every type of filament. Heat-treated silicon boride,for example,works great with ABS,but not with other consumables.

• When printing tiny objects or objects with a relatively small base, it helps to create a brim or craft in your slicer software. This is to increase the contact surface area between the bed and the object for better adhesion.

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Your print may start out looking fine but as it progresses, you notice a shift in between the layers. It looks similar to a step and this effect is known as a layer shift. It may be subtle or could end up ruining your print entirely! So to overcome this troubleshooting layer shift problems while 3D printing process.

Why does it happen?

There are many different reasons that contribute to shifting in the layers. So it’s hard to pinpoint it to just one. The most common, however, is the slipping of pulleys and loose grub screws. But it could also be something as simple as nudging your printer and causing a disturbance in the print job.

How to fix layer shift problems by troubleshooting?

Fix the Print Bed firmly in place 

Check the print bed to see if there are any clips or screws that have become loose. Since printers have detachable print beds it’s a common problem that occurs. But also one that can be fixed easily with the help of pliers.

Similarly, ensure that the printer is on a stable and secure base. As well as kept in an area where it is not prone to be knocked or hit. You’ll notice that even a small disturbance to the printer. During your print job can cause shifting or other layer issues.

Fix the grub screws

When there are sudden shifts in layers, it’s most probably due to one or more pulleys not secured properly to the axis/axes. You can check this when your layers start to shift and notice the pulleys moving and consequently tighten the respective grub screws. Use a small Allen to tighten them.

Check the belts

Another important thing to check is the tension of the belts. You can adjust the belt position to ensure the tension is the same between all the belts. However, if the problem persists and if you’ve had your printer for a while then you should probably change the belts.

Fix stiff rods by oiling them

Rods can get stiff and encounter resistance over time which affects the print and causes shifts in the layers. Ideally, the print head should move around easily without resistance. you can perform a simple check to test this.

Turn off the power and check the head by moving it manually in both X and Y direction. If the head moves around stiffly then its time to oil the rods with some light machine oil.

Check the alignment of the rods

Misalignment in rods is another reason that contributes to stiffness. Again perform a check by moving the head to the left/right side and consequently to the front/back of the printer. The distance between the sliding blocks and the pulleys should be equal on both sides. If the axes aren’t square you can fix this by loosening the screws on the two pulleys of one rod, adjust the sliding block and then re-tighten the screws.

Apart from this, check if your rods are bent by removing them and rolling them on a flat surface. You’ll instantly realize if they’re deformed or bent and can replace them.

Check for warped layers

Warping takes place when there is uneven cooling between the layers which results in the edges rising up. If this happens, the print can release from the bed and this makes it much easier for the layers to shift. You can combat warping by adjusting the speed of the cooling fans but if the problem continues, check out our Troubleshooting Guide To Fix Warping.

Decrease the print speed

Many a time, the reason could simply be that your printer is printing too fast. A clicking sound heard during the print job indicates this and you should first check to see if the filament is slipping and if not, then proceed to reduce the print speed by going into your slicer settings.

I hope this troubleshooting layer shift problems that can be overcome by the article are useful and easy.

Credits: rosso3d.com, doubltjumpelectric.com, ultimaker.com, 3dprinting.stackexchange.com