Overview of 3MF and STL File Formats

Understanding the difference between the two popular formats requires a study of both 3MF and STL’s origins and design principles.

What Is a 3MF File?

The 3D Manufacturing Format is designed expressly for the subtleties of additive manufacturing and is a contemporary XML-based data format. Created and distributed by the 3MF Consortium, a cooperative initiative spearheaded by business leaders like Microsoft, Autodesk, HP, and Stratasys, this addresses the restrictions of conventional 3D file formats.

A 3MF file acts as a “smart” package that functions like a ZIP archive and contains not just the 3D model but also information about materials, colors, textures, and even printer settings.

What Is an STL File

Among the most often used formats in 3D printing is STL. Developed in 1987 by 3D Systems, the form depicts a 3D item using a mesh of small, connected triangles meant to reflect the surface of the model. Every triangle forms a small area of the geometry, as they collectively produce the whole shape that a 3D printer can read.

Since STL files just contain geometric data, they lack information like colors, textures, materials, or measurement units. STL is nevertheless a benchmark in several CAD applications, slicing programs, and 3D printing processes because of its simplicity and widespread compatibility.

3MF VS STL: Pros and Cons

Selecting among these forms usually involves striking a balance between the need for universal compatibility and the necessity for sophisticated capabilities. Here is their benefits and drawbacks analysis.

Pros of 3MF File Format

• 3MF is very useful for multi-material or full-color 3D printers because it can store colors, textures, and materials, unlike STL.
• Directly inside the file, it saves all the “digital thread”, including part orientation, support structures, and slicer settings. Sharing a 3MF file amounts to sharing a full, ready-to-print project.
• Often leading to file sizes much lower than STL files for the same model, 3MF stores vertex information effectively via compression.
• The specification requires the mesh to be “manifold” (watertight), reducing the likelihood of corrupted or unprintable 3D printing files.

Cons of 3MF File Format

• The major drawback of 3MF is its lack of broad support for some legacy CAD software, older slicers, and very elderly printers.
• Although the format is consistent, not all programs allow the complex extensions. Hence, some data could be lost when transferred between platforms.

Pros of STL File Format

• The almost universal adoption of STL makes it useful for most applications and 3D printers.
• For basic, single-color, single-material models, STL is often “good enough.” It is straightforward to generate and easy to understand.
• The majority of online repositories, like Thingiverse and Printables, are saturated with STL files for 3D printing, making it the default format for sharing designs.

Cons of STL File Format

• STL files only have information about the surface geometry. They cannot store texture, color, scale units, or multi-part assembly information, which sometimes results in misunderstandings.
• Going from CAD to STL, the change occasionally produces “unclean” meshes with gaps, overturned normals, or non-manifold edges, calling for laborious fixes.
• Massive, cumbersome file sizes might result from complicated curved surfaces since STL saves every triangle independently without a good indexing scheme.

3MF VS STL: Main Differences

To summarize, here are the critical distinctions between the two formats.

Which Is Better, 3MF or STL?

Considering just technical features, 3MF is the better format compared to STL. It is more secure, smarter, and smaller. It eliminates guesswork by embedding manufacturing intent directly into the file. However, the “better” choice depends on your specific needs.

STL remains a giant due to its ecosystem and simplicity. For quick prototyping where color and complex materials aren’t required, STL’s universality makes it a safe bet. However, for modern workflows involving multi-color printers or when you need to archive a project with all its settings intact, 3MF is unmatched.

While STL’s ecosystem is still massive due to technological inertia, the industry is steadily migrating toward 3MF. In the future, as software and hardware support become ubiquitous, the answer will almost certainly be 3MF.

How to Convert .3MF to .STL？

Even though the 3MF file format has clear advantages, many people still swear by STL. This creates a situation where there is often a need to convert 3MF to STL or the other way around, for a number of reasons, such as:

• Improve software compatibility with older machines or programs.
• Keep only the model geometry by stripping away printer-specific settings.
• Make sharing and downloading easier for users who only need the raw mesh.
• Make the model easier to edit in software that handles mesh well.
• Remove old print settings that may conflict with a new printer setup.

Software

Slicing or design software offers the most dependable approach to convert 3MF to STL. Programs that handle 3MF files include Ultimaker Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Creality Print. Once loaded, you can usually export or “Save as” STL. This method often allows you to visualize the model and adjust it before conversion.

Ultimaker Cura Example:

Other options include more complex 3D model software, such as Blender, Meshmixer, CAD or Autodesk. These tools allow you full control over the models, making it possible to edit everything you could want. They are also useful for inspecting the mesh and vertices, in order to make smaller adjustments if you have issues with your 3D printing software or printer itself for a specific file.

Online Conversion Websites

For quick, one-off conversions without installing software, online tools are very convenient.

A free online application called Aspose 3D Conversion lets you download immediately as an STL file after you drag and drop a 3MF file. It runs right in your browser, also letting you convert STL to 3MF if you need, and supports a range of 3D printing forms.

AnyConv and similar sites offer straightforward conversion services, though users should always be cautious about uploading proprietary or sensitive designs to cloud servers.

Conclusion

Between 3MF and STL, there is a traditional confrontation between heritage and novelty. Bringing 3D printing to life, STL is still a trustworthy, worldwide geometry benchmark. But STL’s constraints become more obvious as printing techniques move toward multi-material and full-color applications. Carrying the whole story of a print job inside one tiny file, 3MF provides a powerful, future-proof solution.

While converting between the two is currently a necessary skill to navigate the transition period, the trajectory is clear. The future of additive manufacturing lies with the intelligent, comprehensive 3MF format.

The post 3MF VS STL: Understanding Their Differences appeared first on Geeetech.

What Are 3D Print Files?

Essentially, a 3D model file is a digital replica of a three-dimensional object. Your 3D printer’s program, commonly known as a slicer, therefore sees curves and surfaces differently than a video game or CAD tool might. Instead, it needs a particular set of geometric information.

The Common 3D Printer File Formats

This section is central to understanding your options. Below is a breakdown of the four most prevalent file formats in consumer and professional 3D printing, from STL files for 3D printing to other, rarer 3D printing file types.

.STL File

Since the 1980s, the STL file format has been the default in 3D printing. It represents the surface geometry of a 3D object using a mesh of small triangles. Larger files result from more triangles but smoother surfaces. Specifically, it offers neither scale, color, nor texture data.

Advantages:

• It is supported by virtually every 3D printing software, slicer, and online databases like Thingiverse or Printables.
• Its simple nature makes it easy for software to process and slice.
• It’s a mature, well-understood format with a vast ecosystem of support.

Disadvantages:

• It cannot store color, texture, or multi-material data.
• The triangulation process approximates curved surfaces, meaning it can never be perfectly accurate. When converted to STL, a very high-resolution STL model format will lose some degree of detail.
• The file does not provide a unit definition (mm or inches), which occasionally causes scaling problems if not properly configured in the slicer.

Applicable Scenarios:

STL files are perfect for beginners who want to print single-color, single-material objects. The format is also ideal for functional parts where color and texture are irrelevant. Finally, it has become the go-to format for sharing designs online due to its universal compatibility.

.OBJ File

Offering more versatility, the OBJ file format is a step up from STL. It is a common option in printing and advanced 3D visuals. 3D geometric information can be kept in an OBJ file, much as STL does. But it is also more flexible as it may retain data about textures, materials, and color. It references an accompanying MTL file, which includes the 3D printer material and color definitions, accomplishing this.

Advantages:

• The main benefit is that OBJ files enable printing of complex figurines or full-color sandstone models since they can accommodate texture and color.
• Though this functionality is not always employed in 3D printing settings, it can also depict curves and surfaces more accurately than STL using mathematical curves.

Disadvantages:

• Management of an OBJ model is a little more complicated since it typically comprises the .obj file, the .mtl file, and independent picture files for textures.
• Including color and texture information might greatly increase file size.
• It can manage color, but it is not as strong as 3MF for setting up complicated multi-material print arrangements (such as different filament assignments).

Applicable Scenarios:

3D-printed sculptures, figurines, or topographical maps where color information is essential will benefit from OBJ files. When the print’s surface calls for a certain visual texture, such as wood grain or fabric, they also work great.

.3MF File

STL’s contemporary, deliberately designed successor is the 3MF 3D Manufacturing Format. This format comes in an XML-based data package, commonly a zip, containing all the data about a model in one archive. This includes the geometry, material colors, textures, and even print settings like infill, support structure specifications, and scale.

Advantages:

• Everything needed to describe the print job is contained in a single file, eliminating the file management issues of OBJ.
• Naturally, it enables a variety of colors, textures, and materials.
• Designed to be “watertight” and self-describing, it lowers the likelihood of mistakes such as non-manifold edges that could afflict STL files.
• Since it is XML-based, the data may be examined and modified with a text editor if needed.

Disadvantages:

• Although adoption is quickly expanding, it is not yet as widely accepted as STL, particularly with very old computers or printers.
• It is also more complex compared to other formats, while also having larger file sizes in many cases.

Applicable Scenarios:

This filetype is often the best choice for modern printers with dual extruders or MMU systems. It has also become ideal for users who need to share a complete, unambiguous print job with a service bureau or colleague. It is even perfect for saving a project while preserving not just the geometry but also the intended material and color choices.

What Is the Best Format for 3D Printing?

Here is an analysis from different factors to help you choose.

From the Factor of User Experience Level:

STL is the default and best choice. Given its universality, every slicing will open it, and every lesson or manual you follow will employ it. It streamlines the process and lets you concentrate on learning printing basics.

You will come across projects where STL comes up short as you mature. STL is still helpful for general-purpose printing, but you should begin playing around with 3MF. By storing print settings with the model, it simplifies processes and avoids you having to reconfigure your slicer each time you reopen a file.

From the Factor of Model Types:

For simple and functional parts, STL is perfectly adequate. Color and texture are irrelevant, and the format’s simplicity is an asset. If you are printing a pre-supported tabletop miniature, the designer will likely provide it in STL for maximum compatibility. However, if you are creating your own full-color sculpture, you will need OBJ to preserve the painted textures.

From the Factor of Materials:

STL is a flawless format when it comes to printing using a single material, as it’s easy to use, widely adopted and overall very efficient.

Conversely, 3MF is the better choice for several materials or colors. Its capacity to encode material properties guarantees that the proper filament is designated to the right section of the model, therefore minimizing mistakes and setup time.

Our Recommendation

Start with STL. Even when looking at 3MF vs STL, it is the standard language of 3D printing. Master the basics of slicing and printing with it. Switch to 3MF for complex projects. When your print involves multiple colors, multiple materials, or if you want to save your precise slicer settings alongside the model, move to 3MF. And stick to using OBJ for full-color, textured models.

Other 3D Print File Formats

While STL, OBJ, and 3MF are the most common for the printing process itself, you will encounter other important file types in your workflow for different 3D printer file types.

.AMF File

The AMF format was another attempt to create a modern replacement for STL. An AMF file is an XML-based format that describes the object’s geometry, material, color, and even lattices and gradients. Like 3MF, it is designed to be a single, comprehensive file for additive manufacturing. It can describe curved triangles, allowing for a more accurate representation of a surface with smaller file sizes compared to STL’s flat triangles. And supports features like color gradients and varying material properties across a single object.

Though it is an ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) standard, it never received the extensive support 3MF enjoys from major software and hardware businesses. Compared with 3MF, popular slicers are less likely to contain strong AMF support.

It is still a format for certain industrial or research applications that calls for its special gradient properties in 3D printer files, but it is not advised for regular consumer usage, as adoption and other elements play too great a role in rendering this format obsolete.

.STEP or .STP File

The STEP format is the industry standard for distributing 3D models among professional CAD applications including SolidWorks, Fusion 360, and Onshape. A STEP file includes the “recipe” for building solids, curves, and dimensions in addition to the complete, correct parametric geometry of a model, unlike STL.

You cannot directly output a STEP file. You first have to bring it into a CAD or slicer program that may then export it as an STL or 3MF file for printing. It is the arrangement you use in a professional design context for editing and collaboration, not for the last print stage.

.X3D File

Representing three-dimensional computer graphics, the open-standard XML-based X3D format is an XML-based file format. It follows the older VRML (Virtual Reality Modeling Language).

Web-based 3D applications, interactive simulations, and data visualization all depend mostly on X3D.

Although it can depict 3D geometry and appropriate 3D files for printing, it is not a widely used form in the 3D printing environment. You could meet it when extracting 3D data from a scientific or web-based site.

Conclusion

The traditional STL continues to be a dependable and worldwide workhorse for most common prints. Representing the future, the 3MF format offers a robust, all-in-one solution that lowers mistakes and maximizes knowledge.

Knowing the benefits and drawbacks of STL, OBJ, and 3MF lets you choose with certainty the most appropriate 3d printer file format for the task and ensures that your final print is exactly what you had intended.

The post The Essential Guide to Common 3D Printing File Formats appeared first on Geeetech.

What Is Slicing?

Whenever you have a 3D design that you want to print, you will need to prepare the digital format for your printer. Instead of just having the complete “block” of your model, it is necessary to slice the model into smaller segments, the individual horizontal layers that the printer will actually produce.

This formatting is called slicing, and is therefore an important part of any FDM 3D printing process, as well as many other types of 3D printers. Think of each layer as representing a cross-section of the model that the printer builds sequentially, and that the slicing is responsible for actually keeping track of the layers and their position.

In simple terms, the slicing is “translate” the 3D model into a series of instruction files that the printer can understand and execute layer by layer.

Why Is Slicing Important in 3D Printing?

Since you will need to convert your 3D design into simple instructions that your 3D printer can understand, slicing can be considered one of the most important parts of the entire process. You may have a beautiful 3D model you created yourself, or picked off the internet, but if it has no slicing data you can not print it.

The actual data that is produced during this procedure influences numerous important factors, including printing quality, accuracy, as well as the overall result of your finished 3D printed product. It does this by controlling the trajectory the printer moves, the quantity of the substance that is extruded, as well as the adhesion that each layer is joined together. A good 3D slicer and appropriate 3D printing programs assure the best settings for speed, quality, as well as the utilization of the building material.

The Processes of Slicing

While the underlying technology of slicing might seem complex, it is actually relatively simple to slice any model with the right software. Oftentimes you can even slice your 3D prints with just a few clicks, so it does not need to be overly complicated, although you will often get better results by changing some parameters based on the specific print, the material you want to use and your actual printer.

Step 1: Import Model

Before you can slice anything, you will first of all need your 3D model as a digital file. There are different formats for this, but common ones include .STL or .OBJ files. These are the most used filetypes that you will typically get when you download a file on any of the larger sites.

Next, you will also need your slicing software. There are many different options to choose from here, so we will cover this part in more detail below. Once you have loaded your 3D model file into the slicer, you can then configure various settings depending on the desired results.

Step 2: Configure Settings

This is the most critical step. You’ll adjust a host of parameters based on your printer, filament, and desired print quality. If you download from another creator, they often include the important parameters you need to change, alongside the values they recommend.

1. Layer height: The thickness of each printed layer. Smaller layers give smoother surfaces but take longer to print.
2. Infill density and pattern: The internal structure of the part, which governs its strength and weight.
3. Wall thickness: The thickness of the outer shell.
4. Support structures: Automatically generated, removable scaffolds that prevent overhangs from collapsing during printing.
5. Print temperature and speed.

The last of the most common parameters is the print temperature and speed. This is generally decided by the material used, so if you use TPU filament, ABS or some others 3D printer filament, you might change these settings in particular.

Step 3: Slice the Model

One you have set all your parameters as you want, you can then click “Slice model” in order to begin the automated process. Depending on the size of your model, how complex the shape is, and the various parameter values, this can take a few minutes on the shorter end or up to 20 minutes on slower devices with a large and complex model.

This is because it performs the “virtual slicing” on the model, along the Z-axis and generates precise printing paths for each layer that your 3D printer will then follow once it becomes time to actually print the model.

Step 4: Generate G-code

Most software applications will then save all these slices into a new file, known as G-code, which then not only stores all your virtual slice paths, but also saves information that the printer will use to know what temperature the hotbed should be, how much extrusion is needed and so on.

Step 5: Send to Printer

The last step before printing, is getting your G-code uploaded to your 3D printer. On your model and preference, you will usually be able to select doing this through a standard SD card, a direct USB, Bluetooth or through your WiFi or LAN networking. Once your 3D printer has received the G-code, you can then begin printing.

Introduction to Slicers

As we mentioned above, there are different types of 3D printing software that you can use to slice your model. In general, they all convert 3D models into G-code instructions for the printer, so it becomes a matter of preference which type of software you end up choosing.

Simplify3D, Ultimaker Cura, PrusaSlicer

Among the most popular used slicers, you would see names like Simplify3D, Ultimaker Cura, and PrusaSlicer. They are either branded applications that come packaged with your specific 3D printer, or massively used third-party applications created by enthusiasts. Many of these programs have free and paid options, and they typically support a wide range of printers and materials.

Geeetech

Looking back, the last 3D printing software we developed was Easy Print, and it’s still being used today.
Now, one new and noteworthy 3D printing software is the one we have launched and named Geeetech, which comes with a set of interesting features for everyone wanting to print easily and quickly. Currently, we only open the connection to Geeetech M1S. And there is a slicing tutorial. The software comes with some models that can be printed directly. More functions and models will be opened up in the future, such as easily slicing.

It will continually get new functions and slicing features, and we look forward to it becoming one of the best slicers for 3D printing for Geeetech users and anyone else interested in great results.

Conclusion

To sum it up, slicing is an extremely important part of any 3D printing process. It is important that you therefore understand why you need to slice your models, but also learn how to tweak the parameter values to get the best results. This can be tricky with some applications, so we recommend you try different types of 3D printing software and 3D slicer tools, in order to see what gives you accurate and high-quality prints.

In particular, we hope you will explore the new Geeetech 3D printing software to experience reliable performance, an intuitive slicer app, and optimized printing results. Have fun printing!

The post Slicing Introduction: What Is Slicing in 3D Printing? appeared first on Geeetech.

What Is Formnext?

Formnext 2024 was held in Frankfurt, Germany, and offered us unique insights into the world of 3D printing. More than 30.000 guests and visitors perused many different stalls and booths displaying their products or techniques, allowing for discussion and learning during the 3-day long expo for all things 3D printing related.

This year we saw that they were focusing on stability and expanding previously established patterns and 3D printing service solutions to increase the efficiency and improve the output quality as much as possible. But of course, there were also many new items and products on display as well such as FDM printers and more.

Some Upgrades of Desktop 3D Printers

We also saw some interesting upgrades in the desktop 3D printer scene, where a couple of manufacturers really stood out to us with their latest innovative inventions.

Bigger and Faster Multicolor 3D Printers

In the space of multicolor printing, we saw an advanced desktop printer using the CoreXY systems, which can achieve great speeds, while also providing up to four different types of filament all joined in the same central hub. For now, the size would still be classified as a desktop printer, which is good news in terms of price once it has finished the development stage.

Active Chamber Temperature Control

We also saw somewhat of a surprise in the form of an enclosed CoreXY printer that comes with active chamber control as the big selling point. While the model was not fully ready for production yet, it allowed for quite a large overall print size of up to 250 x 220 x 270 mm. And the quality of the prints we saw looked really promising so we are eagerly awaiting more news of the actual market launch.

If you are looking for the best 3D printer for beginners to get started right away, you might be interested in our very own Geeetech Mizar M model. This is one of the best hobby 3D printer solutions out there right now, offering cheap 3D printing and excellent quality prints.

As a low-cost desktop printer, Mizar M’s features are competitive with comparable printers in the market. Now, let’s see what the features of Mizar M are:

• Dual extruder: It comes with a dual extruder print head for multicolor prints and has a dual Z-axis setup that makes your prints look amazing and smooth.

• Large printer volume: Compared to other 3D printers on the market at the same price, the overall print dimensions are also quite favorable. The Mizar M allows you to print designs up to 255 x 255 x 260 mm, among the best dimensions for a standard desktop printer.
• Silent printing: Mizar M has a 32-bit silenced motherboard which results in a quiet printing environment that will not wake up your neighbors or annoy you while working on other projects in your home.
• High print accuracy: Mizar M has a +/- 0.1mm accuracy, resulting in very precise models that closely resemble your 3D model. And its layers’ thickness is between 0.1 and 0.2 millimeters, resulting in a very fine surface once the complete print has been produced.
• Compatible with multiple materials filament: Geeetech printer Mizar M supports PLA, ABS and PETG to name a few, making it a versatile option that can produce both outdoor and indoor prints.

Sustainability of 3D Printing Materials

Another key part of the Formnext 2024 exhibition was highlighting the sustainability compared to alternative methods for printing. Here we saw different 3D printing materials made of different types of sustainable 3D printer filament that makes the printing process extremely eco-friendly.

We also witnessed an interesting invention that used a new type of extrusion system designed to work with recycled filament to cut down on the overall waste of the 3D printer process.

This design has made it possible to reuse old prints and discarded strings of filament, by processing the filament and material that would otherwise be wasted and producing very fine results. We are excited to see how this technology will develop in the future, and whether it will be something every 3D printer will come equipped with once the principles and practical application have been perfected.

Large-Format Printers

One interesting machine showcased was a large 3D printer with a 6-axis robotic arm of 2.8 meters, but not only that, the raised platform bed has another 2-axis, making it possible to create some truly stunning and smooth 3D prints with ease. And the dimensions of the printer allow for a scale that most hobby printers can only dream of.

Another big 3D printer we saw up close was one that takes vat photopolymerization and stereolithography to a new level. Typically these types of printers are reserved for smaller prints, but this model provided us with an example that has 3 lasers in an overlapping arrangement making it possible to 3D print somewhat narrow but very long pieces with precision and speed.

There were quite a few other large-format printers on display of equal interest, leading us to conclude many of the manufacturing companies of these 3D printers are aiming to obtain market shares for large-scale production with a focus on speed, automation and efficient production yields.

3D-Printing Human Tissue Models

We also witnessed a somewhat unexpected type of 3D printing material that gave us a unique experience in the form of a medical type of printing material called a bioink, that can 3D print human tissue models.

We already knew of this invention due to previous innovations regarding stem cell printing, and now the technology has advanced further with additive manufacturing that can produce hundreds of tissues in a single day. There have already been successful results with printing brain and spinal cord tissues, and even skin, leading us excited for where this technology can end up in the near future combined with advanced 3D models.

The post Formnext 2024: Some Stunning 3D Printing Technologies appeared first on Geeetech.

What makes Mizar M different?

Separate Mode VS Gradient Mode

Traditional monochrome printing has been difficult to meet the creative needs of 3D printing enthusiasts, and mixed-color printing has become the future trend. Mizar M 3D Printer has two print head modules, “Separated Color Module” and “Gradient Color Module”, and is designed for quick replacement in structure. After replacing the print head module and inserting the hot end connector, the system will intelligently identify the print head module and enter the corresponding print mode.

Unique Separated Color Module

Compared with the Gradient Color Module, the Separated Color Module of Mizar M can realize printing a single color without mixing another color when printing models with two color filaments. Besides, it gains a faster printing speed, which can better meet the needs of two-color printing.

Patented gradient color technology

The Geeetech R&D team has optimized and upgraded the Gradient Color Module of Mizar M. Compared with Geeetech’s first-generation multi-color 3D printer, the Mizar M Gradient Color Module has redesigned the color mixing flow channel and a structure to prevent the reverse flow of melting filament. The filament is more uniformly mixed in the hot end. This special design effectively solves the problem of uneven color mixing, and the hot end blocked due to the reverse flow of the melting filament. At present, the gradient color structure has applied for a patent.

Mizar M with a printing size of 255 x 255 x 260mm, supporting auto-leveling and manual leveling, is equipped with a fixed hotbed and 32-bit silent motherboard. Responding to two printing modes, it comes with double UI interaction systems. The machine comes with a dual-drive gear extruder and double Z-axis ensuring high printing quality. At the same time, Mizar M is designed with a belt adjustment kit, nozzle LED light, filament detector break resuming capability, etc.

Here is the unboxing and assembly video of Mizar M for your references:

If you want to know more info about Mizar M, please check Geeetech official website.

The post New Multi-color 3D Printers Mizar M is Officially Launched,  With Double Hotend Group Modules appeared first on Geeetech.

▲ The Prototype Board Industry

In the earlier years of the surge of 3D technology, the prototype board industry was blessed and was the one who took the first bite of the fruition. We know that every single product we use in our daily application should be produced by design, prototype making, and then precise adjustment.

Before the popularization of 3D technology, the prototype was initially made by hand. Then came the CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines, or CNC engraving machines, which replaced manual production. Nowadays, upon 3D technology’s popularity, 3D printers gradually steal the thunder of CNC and take the lead.

With the promising capability of fast modeling and more complex building, 3D printers surely prevail when they are pitted against CNC machines.

For the prototype board industry, the main client source should be industrial design companies, modeling companies, and large light industrial factories, such as toy factories and electrical factories.

▲ 3D Printed Portrait Figure Service

What advancing technology brings to us is not only the convenience of our life but in a further probe, also the most inner touch of our spirit and soul. Some industries like 3D printed portrait figure services have gained popularity, applying for personalization, studios, travel classics, and even funerals.

Some studios are now offering wedding 3D portrait services for married couples, recording the sweet scenes of the couple in 3D form.

Meantime, the funeral service industry, with a human-centered approach, offers 3D printing services for the deceased. They print the mutilated parts of the deceased to leave them with a final dignity, and meanwhile, they offer the portrait figure printing service. In an even more innovative move, there is a funeral service company that has created a 3D-printed urn to simulate the deceased’s appearance in an utmost degree of imitation. With this technology, 3D printing can capture the slightest detail of a person’s facial characteristics as well as remove their “flawed” parts somehow caused by accident, in pursuing the most perfect side of their beloved ones.

▲ 3D Modeling Business

If you can use your printers to run a business. The modeling career could be your best choice specializing in the 3D printing business. You can cooperate with various modeling-making companies and produce the model for them. Model printing bears a wide range of selections, including architectural sand table models, aviation models, car models, toy models, graduation design models, sculpture models, etc.
A modeling company, with its 3D printing technology, possesses a rather promising prospect. With a specialized printer, it can turn every impossibility into a possibility nowadays.

▲ The Ever-lasting Market: Footwear Industry

The footwear industry, an eternal industry permeating the whole history of mankind, bears the broadest market ever. Meanwhile, the footwear industry will always come up with a model of its production process. According to an authorized footwear 3D printing institution, with the promising emergence of its 3D printing career, it will keep its surging status shortly.

▲ Small-scale Production

A small-scale 3D printing service should be the most common and easiest career for those who would love to gain benefits from their machines. Certain services are recommended: lantern ornaments, outermost shells of small appliances, creative mobile phone shells, trophies, and many other arts and crafts, etc, Why not start your business right now and earn yourself the extra coins?

The post The Great Ideas of the 3D Printing Products丨Start Boosting your 3D Printing Business appeared first on Geeetech.

Without a doubt, you can’t bear some minor flaws in the surface of a 3d printing model, let alone “String”. You complained that this printer is such trash contrary to expectations. At that time, you may get mad but it will eventually end up in a mess. So firstly you need to calm down. Take a close look at what is the exact problem, make it clear how it happened, and how we can solve the problem. Let’s dive in.

What’s the Problem?

3D Printing Stringing exists when small plastic strings are left behind on a 3D-printed model. This is usually due to plastic leaking from the nozzle as the extruder moves to a new position.

How to fix this？

In this article, we bring 5 solutions that can be commonly used on all the major 3D printers.

1. Enable Retraction

Enabling retraction is the most ordinary way to fight against 3D printer stringing. Enabling retraction means that when the extruder has to pass through a gap, the filament is retracted a little bit by the feeder. Once the extruder reaches the next position, the filament is pushed out and the print continues again from the nozzle. If the retraction setting is turned on and you’re still experiencing 3D printer stringing, you may then need to go into the details of the retraction settings:

• Retraction distance

The most important retraction setting is the retraction distance. This determines how much plastic is pulled out of the nozzle. Generally speaking, the more plastic that is retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to seep out as it moves. Most direct-drive extruders only require a retraction distance of 0.5-2.0mm. If you run into stringing with your prints, try increasing the retraction distance by 1mm and test again to see if the performance improves.

• Retraction speed

The next retraction setting that you should check is the retraction speed. This determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If the retraction is too slow, the plastic will slowly leak out of the nozzle and may begin to leak before the extruder moves to its new position. If you retract too quickly, the filament may separate from the hot plastic inside the nozzle, or the rapid movement of the drive gear may even grind away pieces of your filament. There is usually an optimal retraction point between 1200-6000 mm/min (20-100 mm/s).

If standard retraction isn’t doing the trick, you can try to reduce the minimum travel. This is usually the quickest solution to fix stringing issues. Drop the value by 0.5mm until the stringing has stopped completely.

2. Set the Right Temperature

The 3d printer extruder temperature is the next most common cause for stringing. If the temperature is too high, the plastic inside the nozzle will become less sticky and more likely to leak out. However, if the temperature is too low, the plastic will be one kind of solid and difficult to extrude from the nozzle. If you thought you had the right retraction settings but still have these problems, you can try to decrease your extruder temperature by 5-10 degrees. This will greatly improve the quality of your printing.

3. Movement Speed

Moreover, increasing the movement speed of your machine can also reduce the time it takes for the extruder to leak as it moves between parts. The X/Y Axis Movement Speed represents the side-to-side travel speed and is frequently directly related to the range of time your extruder spends moving over open air. As long as your machine can move at higher speeds, increasing this setting may reduce stringing between parts.

4. Thoroughly Clean the Nozzle Before Printing

When you use a printer for a long time, the filament can leave a thin residue layer in 3d printer nozzle. This thin layer can cause 3D printer stringing as filament strands will try to stick to the surface of your printed part. To avoid such a problem, ensure your nozzle is thoroughly cleaned before print.

5. Keep Your Filaments Moisture-Free

PLA, which absorbs more water than ABS, is the main culprit. The water turns to steam when the plastic is heated up, and it can mix with the plastic to increase the likelihood that it will seep out during non-printing movements.

Therefore, it is very important to store the filament properly, especially if you live in a humid environment. For more guidance, check out the previous blog here：How to store filament? 

The post 5 Easy Ways to Prevent 3D Print Stringing appeared first on Geeetech.

3D Printer Test Models

3D Benchy

The 3D Benchy model is probably the most popular and recognized print in the 3D printing community to compare and benchmark 3D printers. It is specifically designed to “challenge the capabilities and reveal the limitations of 3D printers”, according to the official site, it has been the most downloaded and printed 3D model. Indeed, its many features, such as the perfect symmetrical design and the large hull, will show any deviations from your machine.

The 3D model is printed at a 1:1 scale without any support materials. Now let’s compare it against its benchmark equivalent.

The Hull

Its hull–a large, smooth overhanging curved surface, shows any deviations. Our make shows no signs of sagging despite its relatively huge angle. Keep in mind this is printed without any support.

Symmetry

3D Benchy is symmetrical, which makes any skewness and warping easy to find.

Overhang Surfaces

The inner side of the bridge reveals how well the 3D printer deals with overhang issues.

Settings:

Layer height: 0.1mm
Print temperature: 190℃
Print speed: 40%
Retraction distance: 6mm
Retraction speed: 30mm/s

The PolyPearl Tower

If the 3D Benchy model serves as an entry-level test, the Polypearl Tower Torture Model tests your 3D printer and filaments to its limits.

The main features of the PolyPearl Tower are as follows:-

 45° Overhangs

Usually, 45° is referred to as the critical angle that printers can handle without using support material on a given model. The three supporting legs of the PolyPearl Tower are all printed at 45°. Check the underside of these pillars after printing, they should be smooth and uniform, if you find the pillars are messy and non-linear, try increasing cooling and decreasing temperature.

Acute Slopes

Featuring an acute slope of 9° this feature will test your printer’s ability to extrude uniformly. This is also a good test of the filament, as variations in diameter and consistency will result in gaps or non-circular rings. Tweak your extrusion multiplier to perfect the acute slope, this feature can also be affected by your infill percentage. A low infill percentage will not provide the necessary support for the rings to form neatly. Still, having trouble with acute slopes? Try increasing the number of top solid layers on your print.

Fine Details

Fine details are a challenge for any printer. The lower ball of the PolyPearl Tower features tiny circular indents around the center. Check the form and roundness of these holes, they should be round on both sides of the center band. You can compare the top indents against the bottom to see if the layer compression has affected their roundness. On all our test models we never found a perfect set.

The tiny pillars on the front of the pavilion are one of the most challenging aspects of this model. Being very thin, angled, and able to support the bridge of the pavilion roof is surely a tough test for any 3D printer. This is a good place to test your retraction settings, aim for clean pillars with no strings in between. The bridge on top should be well formed and also curved. This aspect of the print is almost impossible to perfect so good luck trying!

Overhangs

On both of the ball sections of the PolyPearl tower, you will find a small overhang section. Inspect the form of these details and compare the top against the bottom. The bottom should be well-formed, circular, and flat. The top overhang is much trickier to perfect, check the sharpness compared to the bottom. This feature is affected by the number of shells/perimeters you choose and how you choose to print them. We suggest inside-out to get the best edge on the overhang. The underside of the balls themselves ranges from 90° to 0°, the top ball, in particular, has less support so keep an eye out for the roundness near the base of the top ball.

Extrusion

To achieve the perfect extrusion settings there should be no indication of where the layer has started and stopped. In this picture, we have used PolyWood to demonstrate a perfect extrusion. Play with your extrusion and retraction settings to achieve the perfect extrusion. Using a matte finish material like PolyWood helps blend the layers also!

Roundness

Check the roundness of the balls on the PolyPearl Tower model. These balls should be consistent and spherical. Play with your speed settings to optimize roundness, most PLAs will print happily at 60mm/s.

Fine Bridging and Smooth Curves

While the distance of this bridge is not that impressive, the triple helix design of the PolyPearl Tower will test your printer’s bridging capabilities on 4 different orientations in one print. We found this change in orientation resulted in some messy bridging on one or two of the sections. Play with your cooling and bridging settings to optimize the fine bridging. You should also notice a smooth curve up the sides of the triple helix. Key an eye out for layer shifts where the bridges meet the helix.

Top Layer Fill

The Top Layer Fill on the Polymaker Logo should be completely filled in. This is affected by the number of Top Solid Layers you choose and also by the amount of shells/perimeters you choose. Too many shells/perimeters and you will be left with a gap in the top surface.

Reference：https://polymaker.com/polypearl-tower-torture-test-model/

All-in-One 3D printer test

 This test includes a support test, scale test, overhang test, hole test, diameter test, and bridging test. It is printed with 100% Infill without supports.

45 degrees is said to be the critical angle for overhangs without any support, but here we have an 80-degree overhang with no support. The overhang and bridges are printed with no signs of sagging or drooping.

The clear and sharp corners show no signs of stringing or deviations.

If you also would like to perform the tests on your 3D printer, you can download the test 3D model on the internet or feel free to contact us for the files. Don’t forget to share with us the results in our Facebook User Group

By the way, the new A10 3D printer comes with an upgraded motherboard/LCD/Frame, and is now available for $219, 8% off its original price!

The post All-in-One 3D Printer Tests appeared first on Geeetech.

Nozzle setting

(1) The 3D printer nozzle is moving too fast.

To save time, some people are inclined to set the speed of the print job higher than what the driver motor is capable of, causing the tool head to fail to reach the desired position.

Solution: In your slicer software, set the speed at 40 to 60mm/s. Alternatively, you may adjust your speed by turning the knob, if you do not wish to stop your print.

(2) Nozzle deviates from the desired position

This happens when the extruder is traveling from one point to another of the print without the Z axis elevating the tool head. The nozzle then hits the object and is pushed away from its intended position. Because the system is unable to detect the deviation, it will continue with the print job, resulting in layer shifting.

Solution: In the settings, readjust the Z- offset to 0.3mm

Mechanical disorder

Most 3d printers use belts to let the motor control the position of the nozzle. Over time, the belt may stretch, which can impact the tension used to control the nozzle. If the tension becomes too loose, the belt may slip on the pulley, which means the pulley is rotating, but the belt is not moving. If the belt is too tight, this can also cause problems. Tightened belts can create excess friction in the bearings that will prevent the motor from spinning. Ideally, the belt is installed tight enough to prevent slipping, but not too tight to stop the system from rotating.

Solution: manually adjust the belt for proper tension. Regularly check and maintain your 3D printers.

Layer shifting could also occur when the motors fail to spin as a result of not getting enough electrical current; or when the model exceeds the size of the print bed, which causes the nozzle to lose its position at the edges. Finally, make sure there is no external force imposed on your printer, for any level of external force could interfere with the moving of the belts.

Any questions or ideas? Leave us a comment in the comments section or email us. We would love to hear from you.

The post What is Layer Shifting and How to Fix it? appeared first on Geeetech.

Are you a seasoned player in 3D printing, wondering what you can do with all your 3D designs, models and 3D printer, aside from keeping them as a hobby ?   

If either of the above scenarios apply to you, you are not alone. Alex, China born and bred, now 27, working and living in Europe, first got into 3D printing when attending university in France. He says one summer afternoon in his sophomore year he ,together with his other three classmates was invited to a small gathering at a local student’s house. At some point his friend showed the guests his 3D printer and started to print a Japanese cartoon character on it. Alex was amazed at how capable this little(well, not exactly little, but Alex thinks so ) machine is.

A few days later, Alex decided to get one himself. So he went online in search of the same 3D printer model his friend was using. As it turns out, the same machine being sold online is priced at $399,not a small expenditure given that he was a student studying overseas and his middle-class family background. He somehow summoned up the courage to ask his parents to buy if for him. According to Alex, his parents were mad at him at first. They wouldn’t get it why he would want to buy such a “useless” but expensive thing. And they were worried that their only son would abandon his study as a result of “playing too much with the machine”.

Long story short, in the end, Alex was able to convince his Dad to buy the printer for him by promising to focus on his study and to return home with a degree,which he did. Fast forward to 1.5 years ago, Alex purchased his first geeetech 3D printer–A20M, and has become a fan of geeetech ever since.

To date, a great number of people still have not heard of desktop 3D printers,just like Alex and his parents years ago, and 3D printing is more of a industrial concept than an everyday conversation topic.

It is projected that 3D printing will be the next big thing in the years to come,with 3D printers for home and office use being more affordable and capable.A similar pattern can be drawn in the developments of smart phones and 3D printers. Smart phones in the early days were expensive,not so “smart”, and known to few.However,a decade later almost everyone owns smart phone. So now is probably the best time to monetize your 3D printing skills and expertise before 3D printers become ubiquitous.

Here are 5 ways to make money with your 3D printer and 3D printing know-how.

Sell Your Design.

One of the best ways to make money using a 3D printers is not to have one. Isn’t it amazing? If you have 3D models/designs you think are great but do not own a 3D printer, put them up for sale.The world is in want of great designs. .

Sell Your Work

If you are a creative creature, why not turn your creativity into reality and sell your work online? Take photos or make videos of your works and make them known to others. Share them on your social media:Facebook, Ins. Twitter. Those impressed with your work may be willing to pay for it. Photos/videos of your printed objects are promotional materials to get customers.

Prototyping

Another way to make money off 3D printing is to sell 3D printed prototypes to local businesses and companies. One advantage of this business model is that you do not have to rack your brain trying to come up with great designs or models. Chances are your clients have a team dedicated to it. All you are left to do is get them printed. It of course would give you a leg-up if you have a good command of 3D modeling (CAD) software.  

Printing Services.

As pointed out above, not every one owns(some choose not to ) a 3D printer. 3D printing has been widely used in education, medical, robotics,architecture,jewellery and many other industries, this means there is always a market for printing services.  Let others know what your printer is capable of and your rates for such service,and you are all set.

Teaching 3D Printing.

As of today,3D printing is still not commonplace, but is getting more attention and interest from the public, and 3D printers are being introduced into classrooms, offices and homes due to their versatility,causing a gap between the demand for 3D printers and supply of experts, specialists, who understand 3D printing and know how to operate those machines, flying in the face of the fact that desktop 3D printers are becoming more and more user-friendly. All this makes teaching 3D printing technology a lucrative business.

That concludes the list of ways to make a living off 3D printing.

Any questions or ideas? Leave us a comment. We would love to hear from you.

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